Sub output: Is it the woofer size or the rated RMS


In any subwoofer output, how important is the Watt output versus the woofer size? I have been reading reviews on some subs such as Earthquake, Sunfire and JL audio. The Earthquakes (15" woofers; ~650W) have reportedly more "slam" than the Sunfire (1000W-1500W, 12" woofer), or the 650W-750W SVS, or even the fathoms.
And each of these are box subs.
Or is it really about the proprietary technology unique to every sub?
In other words, what really influences a sub's output for all the wonderful things we want in a great sub?
dogmatix
>Drew -- doesn't your response overlook bass damping, inertia of the cone and the other parts of the moving assembly, and the ability of the cone to stop quickly when the input signal stops? All of which I think support what Kijanki was saying.

Bass damping is a separate issue which also isn't related to driver size.

It's determined entirely by the transfer function.

How you get to a given Q (the ratio of stored to dissipated energy) isn't relevant to decay. Even convolving the input to a sealed or open baffle enclosure with a Linkwitz-Transform or shelving low-pass filters works (although with a small box the distortion from air-spring non linearities and power required make a large box more desirable).

Resonant devices (ports and passive radiators) rely on stored energy and may cause audible problems when within the musical power spectrum, but work fine to gain infrasonic extension.

Stored energy in the room is a much bigger problem than in sub-woofers built for flat response, with decay and the resulting amplitude response being very frequency dependant.

The relative significance of time and amplitude aberations is not well understood here. Stimulating fewer room resonances through directional bass works well (this implies dipoles which are dumping most of their power into an acoustic short circuit). Equalizing for flat steady state amplitude response seems to work. Sub-woofers at a null or two sub-woofers centered on the null work according to literature. Catch-throw arrays look real interesting.

Two sets of two (mounted push-pull to cancel even order harmonics) dipole sub-woofers equalized to a second order roll-off with poles at 20Hz (Q=.5) did produce the most natural bass I've heard from any room-loud speaker system in spite of having only 13x19x8' to work with and no acoustic treatments.
>Shadorne - I wasn't thinking of slap and 5kHz when I mentioned 10" woofer's bass definition - for that bass enclosures have tweeters. I was thinking of low frequencies. 10" woofer arrays have better controlled/damped (shorter) bass while 18" woofers tend to produce "woolly" bass. The question is what is cheaper - 18" woofer or 3 x 10" woofers (to obtain the same surface area).

You can't extrapolate from instrument speakers driven with a wide bandwidth signal (even with a tweeter you may be running the main driver out to 2Khz) that are engineered to break up in a pleasing way to hi-fi drivers run in a narrow bandwidth (not even out to 200Hz) containing entirely wave lengths that are much larger than the speaker that are supposed to be true to whatever signal you're feeding them.
Just because a driver is large doesn't mean it will sound less good. Remember it is trying to reproduce such devices as ten foot bass drums and long stringed instruments. In order for ten inch drivers to play deeply enough they will require much more equalization and power than an eighteen inch model. doubling or tripling drivers does lower their f3 point. It just decreases their distortion and increases power handling and output.
This is the best lecture series I have ever had, and I have attended a few to get a Ph.D that made me prematurely bald in the process.
I am no student of wave physics. I am only interested in fiddling with mammalian genes. But I wanted to learn more about the components I listen to and what affects their output. I got a treat.

Thanks guys. And I mean that.
Shadorne: ... That would be system Q or damping... An overdamped design would be extremely inefficient (low SPL output at 20 Hz) with a small woofer in a small box .... IMHO, ideal is a super big sealed box with low Q (0.5 or so) and a large woofer. The very large woofer and super big box allow for the very poor efficiency of a low Q design.... The issue is that the single large woofer may cost up to $2K!

Drew_eckhardt: Bass damping is a separate issue which also isn't related to driver size. It's determined entirely by the transfer function. How you get to a given Q (the ratio of stored to dissipated energy) isn't relevant to decay.

I don't doubt that what you are both saying is correct, but it seems counter-intuitive to me. It seems to me that to provide accurate "piston-like" motion, with minimal flexing of the cone, a larger driver would have to be thicker and heavier (as Kijanki stated), especially if we want to limit the cost increase associated with it.

It seems to me that a bigger, thicker, heavier cone would have reduced "compliance," if that is the right term, and therefore require a greater degree of damping than a smaller, lighter cone. Why would bass damping be independent of this?

Putting it another way, couldn't the smaller, lighter, more compliant driver get away with a higher-Q enclosure, which would partially offset its limitations in low frequency extension and volume?

Dogmatix -- Although your kind acknowledgement is more relevant to some of the other contributors to this thread than to mine, let me say that it's nice to see such words here.

Regards,
-- Al