No one actually knows how to lculate what speaker cable they need


It goes back to cable manufaturars, mostly provide no relevant data! to sales and the users. None will answer this!
Whay do you think that you own now the optimal cable to your setup?
I think I've figured it out. 


128x128b4icu
Just seen this add. on this site:
http://www.jpslabs.com/speakercable.shtml
For jps cables.
Not a word on any technical data: resistance, for what equipment they are good for...They do talk about a lot of power (Watts) or current (Amp’s) and a shield for speaker cables: What is that good for, at a time the Amp. output resistance is less than 0.016 ohms (FD=500). This is more like a short circuit. Any one who knows a little in electronics, can tell you it won’t pick any noise. And the output signal is relativly large.
They look awsem. I can give them that. Put them a silk tie or a dress and they are ready for a graduation party. Is it important to look that good or is it important to fit the system or produce a btter sound?
Somthing must justify the price...So lets do them look good.
b4icu, would you like to show us the naked termination going from the 0 AWG cable to the spade or banana connector? I would like to see how you did that. Thanks! 
Sorry, I have no picture of that taken.
I'll try to explain.
The ideais to use a short 8 AWG (the thickest wire that can fit into the banana plug) that is going between the banana plug and the 0 AWG cable.
As I said in one of my posts, an 0 AWG can not be soldered. It takes to long till the tin melts. By the time it does, the plastick sleve is damaged and a significant part of the cable's adge is subjected to oxidization.
I use a cable shoe to fit (DIN 70 size) and crimp it with a 0 AWG crimping tool.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DROF-Mechanical-crimping-tool-for-10-to-2-0-AWG-6-to-50-mm-Made-of-Steel/16...

The 0 AWG is kind of difficult to work with. every step that would be eassy with an ordinary wire (up to 12 AWG) is getting bulky.

I do not use spades. They are not good for contact (it gets lose in time) and every here and there it need's to be fasten. An endless maintenance.

If you are into make one for yoursrlf, I may offer you that service.
Going back for a minute to the JPS cable Add.:
http://www.jpslabs.com/aluminata.shtml
Even though it is a power cable, they state: 60A and 14,000W and 250A and 48,000W. Absolutly impressing...
By the AWG standard (https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm) a 60A requires an 8 AWG and 250A a 000 AWG (50% thicker than a 0 AWG. Two are required and a GND). None would fit into that cable, even it looks really thick.
Do you see the nylon sleev? It’s for you not to see what is beneath it.
However, the IEC standard 60906-2 (2011) limits the power to 20A.
Older versions are up to 15A.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity_by_country
Any liscenced electrician would tell you that. What they state is not legal.
That would end with burned or melted pins on the plug. A house line is also limited and even the 60A needs a 3 phase instalation. The plug showen is for 1 phase. A long story is told there, without any sense to back up the price (?).
I'm just trying to show you guys, what is going on in this dubious industry.
My question, is what is that good for? So is the thing with speaker cables. They will tell you a lot to keep a friday night conversation on the subject, to keep you happy, but not much of the most important and required properties.
Been reading this and find it interesting. I would buy a tinned finely stranded pure copper 0 gauge wire which may actually sound great based on my experience with stranded tinned copper wire from Duelund, Western Electric and Supra. Such wire is available using oxygen free pure copper.  Not sure how I would terminate just yet.