Roger, here’s a question about light loading with the RM-200 Mk.2 amp: With a loudspeaker given a nominal 8 ohm load rating by it’s designer/manufacturer (it measures between 10 and 20 ohms from 20Hz to 20kHz save for the 60Hz-180Hz band, where it dips down to 7 ohms, centered at 80Hz), the RM-200 will of course put out at least it’s rated 100w/ch when connected to the amp’s 8 ohm taps. If it is instead connected to the 4 ohm taps (light loading), what will the amp’s output wattage be?
Because of the speaker’s relatively high and even impedance curve, it is not for the flattest frequency response I am interested, but rather the lowest distortion and longest tube life. I realize that with light loading those will be achieved at the cost of less power output from the amp. I have a modestly-sized room, and don’t listen at very high SPL, so am willing and able to accept that.
As I tell everyone. Light loading can be done on any tube amplifier. If you dont play above 80 dB go to the lowest tap. If you play 90 go one higher, if you play more than 90 you may have to use the high tap to get the volume you desire. This change should be far more apparent than a cable change. 7 ohms on the 8 ohm tap is no problem for the amp but lower taps always perform better technically though how it sounds to you is more important.
4 ohms on the 4 ohm tap produces 100 watts. 8 ohms on the 4 ohm tap around 60 watts. As you go down in taps you spend more time in the class A region. The distortion and damping are much improved.
Would be nice if you had a way to measure the peak voltage you require, then much better advice can be given. You can also get at that with a SPL meter at one meter at listening level. Then with speaker sensitivity we can compute it
Everyone needs an SPL meter. For $50 its an execellent investment. People spend more than that on a poorly designed high end fuse. Please do not buy premium fuses, TuningFuses are the worst and the others I have not dissected but the people who sell them should be dissected.