Does anyone care to ask an amplifier designer a technical question? My door is open.


I closed the cable and fuse thread because the trolls were making a mess of things. I hope they dont find me here.

I design Tube and Solid State power amps and preamps for Music Reference. I have a degree in Electrical Engineering, have trained my ears keenly to hear frequency response differences, distortion and pretty good at guessing SPL. Ive spent 40 years doing that as a tech, store owner, and designer.
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Perhaps someone would like to ask a question about how one designs a successfull amplifier? What determines damping factor and what damping factor does besides damping the woofer. There is an entirely different, I feel better way to look at damping and call it Regulation , which is 1/damping.

I like to tell true stories of my experience with others in this industry.

I have started a school which you can visit at http://berkeleyhifischool.com/ There you can see some of my presentations.

On YouTube go to the Music Reference channel to see how to design and build your own tube linestage. The series has over 200,000 views. You have to hit the video tab to see all.

I am not here to advertise for MR. Soon I will be making and posting more videos on YouTube. I don’t make any money off the videos, I just want to share knowledge and I hope others will share knowledge. Asking a good question is actually a display of your knowledge because you know enough to formulate a decent question.

Starting in January I plan to make these videos and post them on the HiFi school site and hosted on a new YouTube channel belonging to the school.


128x128ramtubes
I am puzzled why the idle current goes down rather than up as it warms. Usually its the other way round because of the negative temp coefficient of transistors.
Actually this is pretty common with bipolars. They can get into a phenomena known as 'thermal runaway' if this is not well controlled.

However, my latest amps are Class A, and I suspect that a more realistic match is obtained by culling outliers by HFE, then match from VBE using the bias at constant potential and sufficient to generate the operating current. Finally, instead of using matched emitter resistors, I use emitter resistors tailored to the output devices, so that each emitter resistor sees the same potential drop.
Your thoughts? Any advice appreciated.

There's a difference between idle and dynamic operation. Matching the hfe over the range in which the device operates is going to be a better method. Otherwise what will happen is a particular transistor can 'hog' current at higher operating points and it will thus be the thing the sets the distortion of the amplifier at power, especially full power.
with Class D switching freq over 450/500 KHz these days do you still think output filtering is an issue?. How do I educate more about this ?. If the issue of filtering not a function of switching freq please correct me. Thanks again.


There's lots of information on the web! You might want to read the papers of Bruno Putzey who has done a lot to further the art. The filter is there to filter out the switching frequency, which it cannot do completely. What is left is a sine wave called 'the residual'. Usually the filter is set to about 60-80KHz, so as to avoid phase shift within the most sensitive area of the audio passband, but otherwise get the residual down as low as possible. The higher the switching frequency the easier this is to do- the speaker inductance itself starts to play a huge role at higher frequencies.
Mac Turner brought me in to consult on his. What disturbes me about them is that they all get their sound from the IC in the front end. Perhaps some are discrete front ends but I have not seen any.
Actually you don't need any ICs in the front end prior to the encoding scheme, if you set things up right. The encoding scheme of course is going to use some sort of chip- our amp for example uses a high speed comparator chip. But the audio signal is applied directly to it.


@bdp24 

Roger, here’s a question about light loading with the RM-200 Mk.2 amp: With a loudspeaker given a nominal 8 ohm load rating by it’s designer/manufacturer (it measures between 10 and 20 ohms from 20Hz to 20kHz save for the 60Hz-180Hz band, where it dips down to 7 ohms, centered at 80Hz), the RM-200 will of course put out at least it’s rated 100w/ch when connected to the amp’s 8 ohm taps. If it is instead connected to the 4 ohm taps (light loading), what will the amp’s output wattage be?

Because of the speaker’s relatively high and even impedance curve, it is not for the flattest frequency response I am interested, but rather the lowest distortion and longest tube life. I realize that with light loading those will be achieved at the cost of less power output from the amp. I have a modestly-sized room, and don’t listen at very high SPL, so am willing and able to accept that.



As I tell everyone. Light loading can be done on any tube amplifier. If you dont play above 80 dB  go to the lowest tap. If you play 90 go one higher, if you play more than 90 you may have to use the high tap to get the volume you desire. This change should be far more apparent than a cable change. 7 ohms on the 8 ohm tap is no problem for the amp but lower taps always perform better technically though how it sounds to you is more important.

4 ohms on the 4 ohm tap produces 100 watts. 8 ohms on the 4 ohm tap around 60 watts. As you go down in taps you spend more time in the class A region. The distortion and damping are much improved.

Would be nice if you had a way to measure the peak voltage you require, then much better advice can be given. You can also get at that with a SPL meter at one meter at listening level. Then with speaker sensitivity we can compute it

Everyone needs an SPL meter. For $50 its an execellent investment. People spend more than that on a poorly designed high end fuse. Please do not buy premium fuses, TuningFuses are the worst and the others I have not dissected but the people who sell them should be dissected. 

@terry9 @atmasphere 

Actually this is pretty common with bipolars. They can get into a phenomena known as 'thermal runaway' if this is not well controlled
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Ralph, did you perhaps mis-read this. He said the idle goes down not up as the amp warms. This is the opposite of thermal runaway.

Terry, do you still hold your idle current goes down as it warms?

If so I want to see your circuit. Hey, I'd like to see it anyway. This is unusual. 

I still prefer US, European or Japanese vintage production over the new stuff!


Is a 1980s RM-9 in good working condition vintage enough? :) They just going like the Energizer Bunny