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FR64 cartridge suggestions

Been out of the loop for quite a few years due to some 'life' events, with system in storage.

I have been able to pull my system from storage, and last year worked enough overtime to upgrade or purchase new equipment, but I have not upgraded my turntable/tonearm/cartridge yet.

My turntable is a Technics SL1000 MKII which for those not familiar, is the Technics SP10 MKII turntable mounted on a factory plinth.
I have two Technics B-500 bases with an 'E' armwand and 'H' armwand that I don't use.
The tonearm I do use is a Fidelity Research FR64, so I need a low compliance cartridge.
The cartridge I used last is a vintage Fidelity Research FR-1 MK3 F, which needs to be re-tipped, and I will do so once I get a replacement.

The rest of the system includes:

Zesto 1.2 Andros tube phono stage
Zesto 1.5 tube preamp
Quicksilver V4 tube amps (new KT150 version)
Green Mountain Audio Continuum 3 speakers
JL Audio 113 Fathom subwoofers (pair)

Curious what cartridges other high mass tonearm owners are using, especially those who use Fidelity Research FR64/66 tonearms.

Looking for cartridges under $2000 USD at most.. probably should spend half that.

I have over 20K records, so I am very anxious to get this back into service.

Really curious about suggestions and thanks in advance.



rich121
solypsa's avatar
solypsa
462 posts
 
Heavier silicone won't help your b60 clone with the side movement- it is the tolerance of the guide pin. Ask me how I know :)
If anyone has extra guide pin screw (of the correct dimensions) I'd love to get one...
nandric's avatar
nandric
4,086 posts
 

@rich121 & solypsa , Is Mr. Tien still in business? I thought he ended his B-60 adventure because of insufficient profit. The ''guidepin'' as solypsa called the thing is actually an ''old-fashioned screw''. I asked Tien to substitute his steel sample for ''gun metal'' kind because of my assumption that this ''metal'' (alloy) will glide better ''against'' steel ,er, glide. Metallurgy  seems to be more art then science while both are ''uneasy domeins '' to me. The same reason(gliding) caused me to substitute silicone oil for grease. I still have the ''old steel kinds'' and checked them in order to refresh my memory. I have no idea how the instrument with which thread is cut is called but assume that the thread is not cut with the right dimension/ tolerance . Aka ''fraction smaller'' then needed. This then causes ''side movement''. Any ''mechanics'' with a late should be able to produce the right ,er, ''screw''.




rich121's avatar
rich121 OP
187 posts
 

nandric , solypsa :

I believe I purchased his last two B-60 clones for my FR 64s’s.... One slides up and down, nice and tight and no side movement... the other, has slight side movement.
Which I could know what needed to be fixed and knew where to take it... Not much for ’intricate’ machine shops here... larger production stuff.
solypsa's avatar
solypsa
462 posts
 
Yes it is a screw...if memory serves (it has been several years since I had mine apart) the very tip of the screw is machined smooth to form a pin that extends into a vertical slot in the inner piston. Maybe I forgot the detail.

Anyway mine is too small allowing movements horizontally when the inner piston travels vertically- as is the case with others as well. So screw needs to be correct length, fit the threaded outer body and fit the inner slot tightly.

Anyone want to make some :)
nandric's avatar
nandric
4,086 posts
 

Solypsa, ''Those damn details'' (grin). My theory was that the

(cut) thread on the screw was the ''guilty party'' but it is ''your

very tip on the screw'' . Aka ''the nose'' on the screw. Considering

the fact that only few complained about its dimensions this

imply that they are not equal. Some are smaller then the other.

This is an huge error for an ''exact replica ''.

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