Buy LED, LCD or Plasma

You probably need to use HDMI outputs of TV to an inexpensive receiver with HDMI in. Then get some kind of very coherent horns and sit back 12 feet or more and enjoy real movie theater sound.
I passed on the S series due to lack of analog audio outputs. My G10 runs to a JRDG Capri preamp which does not accept HDMI.
There is a thread on Audio Circle now about choosing an HDMI receiver.

Albert- I use a Sony Rm-VL610 universal learning remote to control my system. You can program it so that the volume functions control an amp/receiver etc. But the channel buttons control your tv or cable box. It's only $30 and so far it has proven to be a pretty good one remote solution for my system.

My only complaint is that it's preprogrammed panasonic tv codes did not work well with the S1 and I had to learn commands from the tv remote. Not a big deal really though. If you have more $$ to spend there are other remotes that use USB to get codes from your computer, which sounds easier to me.

Mark

You probably need to use HDMI outputs of TV to an inexpensive receiver with HDMI in. Then get some kind of very coherent horns and sit back 12 feet or more and enjoy real movie theater sound.
I passed on the S series due to lack of analog audio outputs. My G10 runs to a JRDG Capri preamp which does not accept HDMI.

I'm using Blue Ray and AT&T fiber Optic for viewing, so it makes better sense to pull signal from those two sources than the TV. The whole idea of TV output driving in wall speakers was to supply enough SPL in my room for everyday TV watching (my wife) where the TV remote would work seamlessly.

I just sold an HDMI receiver here at Audiogon, a Marantz.

The Panny also has a TOSLINK output.

Mark,

Albert- I use a Sony Rm-VL610 universal learning remote to control my system. You can program it so that the volume functions control an amp/receiver etc. But the channel buttons control your tv or cable box. It's only $30 and so far it has proven to be a pretty good one remote solution for my system.

The AT&T receiver is not line of site, requires RF (radio frequency) remote to operate. The Sony remote you mention may not operate the AT&T box unless line of site and probably does not operate as IR and RF.

I found a RF remote that fits inside a regular remote (like the AT&T RF) and uses radio to generate a sub signal to control a IR (infrared) sensitive device.

In theory you could pair the AT&T RF with aftermarket extender that uses RF+IR.

The AT&T RF would control U-verse box, AT&T remote (IR) controls the Panasonic, and the on board RF to IR converter would send commands to the (yet undisclosed) receiver.

Everything from one remote, (maybe :^).