What do you drive and why?


Just got a 2019 Subaru Forester. Had a 2012 till someone decided to T-bone me on the drivers side. The car held up very well to the impact. Walked away even though the damage was such insurance called it a total loss. Safety was a main consideration in getting the new one, plus the AWD system, improved mileage and reliability of the brand. Had an older Honda CRV (2006) and almost bought another, great small SUV.
So what do you drive and why?
128x128Ag insider logo xs@2x2psyop
2017 Porsche Macan S
2003 Infiniti G35 coupe - 207,000 miles. I can't bear to part with it because it's still a lot of fun.
I like sports cars and have been driving them for decades. Recently sold examples - Jensen CV8 (sixpack big block Chrysler), Fiero GT with 300 bhp custom turbo engine, Lamborghini Islero S, MGC (straight 6 MGB lookalike).

Current fleet:

Pontiac Solstice coupe - tuned to 375 bhp out of a 2 litre engine

BMW Z4M coupe - because I love the naturally aspirated straight six when it gets up around the 7900 rpm red line

Jensen Interceptor - because you need a gentleman’s carriage that will cruise at triple digit speeds all day (even if there aren’t any roads available to do that any more), and the big block Chrysler offers effortless high speed capability

1962 MGA coupe - because they represent a styling period we’ll never see again

1956 MGA with Fiberfab Jamaican rebody and GM 3.4 V6 with 5 speed transplant

and although I no longer race it, my old race car, a 1958 MGA Twin Cam roadster

And if I need to haul stuff, I can always borrow my wife’s Mazda 3.
Flapjack and falconquest,
Thanks for the heads up on the Subaru and specifically Forester problems. I will keep an eye on those issues and some other ones I have heard about. I have had two Hondas and one Toyota and really like those brands as well. I think it can be helpful to share stories and experiences about cars without bickering.... such sharing can be useful.

Always check the ground wires on the older subarus. Always change the batteries out due to a lightweight level of alternator assist.

What happens is that the revs drop, the car draws from the battery instead of the alternator, so every drop to idle is like a start cycle pressure on the battery. This causes premature wear on the battery.

the not perfect ground wiring, combined with the pressure on the now weak battery/flow system... causes a electrical potential differential to arise in the antifreeze and causes a shift in it’s ph.

It’s a wet sump motor type, so it is always sitting in it’s fluids. The altered pH of the anti-freeze will begin to dissolve the seals.

also, the slight bit of slippage of carbon (burnt fuel) around the rings will change the acidity of the oil, and the engine, unlike most others out there, sits in it’s oil, when not operating. So the oil goes acidic, like all oil does in time, and then you get the oil eating it’s seals. In this case, it eats the lower half of the head gaskets. (where the sitting oil contacts it)

So, check grounds, change batteries, make sure idle is good, and change oil as often as the maintenance schedule asks you to.

The motor is fundamentally air rated, so it’s not all bad. But air rated engines need to survive in the air and have severe maintenance schedules and testing, not sit around and be essentially ignored.... and do 300k miles over 10 years, like in a car.