Replaced CDP w/ Transport; Now, Soundstage Changes Dramatically w/each CD. Why?

"Another thing to consider for soundstage definition improvement is what sits under your components."

Agreed - I have had great success using 3 brass cones under all of my components. I also tried wood cones, which provided audible improvements, but the brass cones provided a little more detail and clarity.

In my case, the components sit on a granite tile with a thin rubberized mat between it and the MDF shelf. 

The brass cones vary in diameter/depth, from a 2.5" dia cone 1.25" high for the turntable down to 3/4" dia cone 1/4" high for my Bluesound Node streamer.

Unfortunately, all of the cones were custom made so I cannot recommend a brand, but there are some good commercially available products out there.

Regards - Steve

If one transport is level and the other one isn’t guess which one will sound better. And have a better and more revealing soundstage. The first two guesses don’t count.

georgehifi5: yes, I'd agree that (even my modded) Jolida does exhibit "fuzziness".  Funny-- it was Chris Templer's review of the JD 100 that inspired me to look at it in the first place. 

williewonka: I guess I'm in the minority re: brass. I have some brass footers and having been dissatisfied no matter where I've tried them, they now serve as "book-ends" on my CD shelves. Perhaps not all brass footers are the same? Mine are Edensound. I prefer ceramic cones and as mentioned, the original Stillpoints. 

geoffkait: this may be a dumb question, but unless components have some sort of threaded, adjustable feet, how does one "level" components? 

I agree, ceramics kill brass. Brass is one of your softer metals. NASA grade ceramics are almost as hard as diamonds. Brass is waaay on down the scale.

geoffkait: this may be a dumb question, but unless components have some sort of threaded, adjustable feet, how does one "level" components?

>>>>Absolute level of the CD itself is not as easy to obtain as it seems. The tray level is not a good reference, sometimes the tray is at some angle to the transport. The level of the top of the chassis is not a good reference, either, because tolerances of the whole package are not exactly NASA precision. If you use a bubble level on the top of the chassis what you often find is the level varies. So, which one is correct? If the component does not have threaded feet you will have to come up with a shim or two under one or two feet.

Also, “fuzziness” is not unusual for ANY CD player. Everything is relative for resolution and dynamics. Unless one addresses scattered background laser light AND flutter and vibration of the CD whilst spinning I’m afraid you’ll always be on the fuzzy side of things. It’s always gaining to be fuzzy and compressed relative to what it should be. People give designers of this stuff way too much credit. 

geoffkait: thanks for the explanation. So then, what does one use for shims ?