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Ingress Audio Engineering

I recently discovered the benefits of isolation. Don't know how many of you are familiar with Barry Diament's  recommendations for his hip joints. The recommendation for the economical DIY set up worked well for my stereo; (lightly inflated bike innertubes, wooden egg holders supporting stainless steel balls).

http://www.barrydiamentaudio.com/vibration.htm

A month ago I bought Isoacoustic Oreo's. 3 per component (weight appropriate) and was very impressed...at first. After several days of settling my music sounded dull and lifeless. I reread the optimal weight recommendations, re-calibrated weight limits with temporary improvements. To my disappointment I realized the Oreo's could only be compressed (especially after the suction seal was formed between them and the component or platform the component sat on). Sure they rocked in all directions, but they didn't glide in all directions. Only horizontal isolation was taking place so I coupled the Oreo's with Barry's economic hip joints which has greatly improved the SQ. I'm loving it but I still feel there's room for improvement. Mainly because I own the Hfiman HE-6SE HP's and I run them through my power amp's speaker taps. So I want Barry's upgraded hip joints under my amp. I'm interested in Ingress Audio's vibration isolation rollerblocks.

http://www.ingress-engineering.ca/products-and-services.php
I've looked up info about their level 2's and 3's but specifics on their differences aren't given. I know Barry says the blocks should be machined smooth to a certain degree. I left a message with Ingress, but I'm impatient and wondering if perhaps the level 2's aren't as smooth as the 3's. The smoother, the greater the improvements. My question is does anyone know the differences between their Level 2 and Level 3 rollerblocks?
mewsickbuff
uberwaltz's avatar
uberwaltz
13,381 posts
 
@bdp24 

Thinking on I still have two 16x16 x2 maple blocks from previous speaker endeavors.
I could fasten the Maggie's existing feet to them and roller blocks then under that.
Right now they would be direct into carpet.

Would maybe try two sets of the v2 first
geoffkait's avatar
geoffkait
23,365 posts
 
I would imagine damping would be more appropriate as well as less expensive for dipoles since speaker isolation is primarily used to prevent mechanical feedback. And dipoles don’t transmit much energy directly to the floor. It would probably be much more cost effective to isolate the front end.
bdp24's avatar
bdp24
10,081 posts
 

In looking at the diagram blowup of the GAIA on the IsoAcoustic website, I came to the conclusion that whatever isolation they are providing must be by way of some sort of rubber. They say it's not Sorbothane, but may it be Navcom? That stuff is still being made, and is used in firearms and other fields as mechanical dampers. I doubt it's the EAR rubber, but who knows?

I hope it's not, as the isolation properties of rubber doesn't extend very low in frequency, which is what we want. The lower the better. But remember when everyone ditched the springs in their VPI HW-19 tables for the SIMS Silencer Navcom pucks? Not all springs are created equal, and I don't think Geoff is going to share his secrets!

If I had the dough, I'd have a Herzan or Minus K under everything. Audiogoner folkfreak has his table on a Herzan (he had me over for a listen), and it's a thing of beauty! 

geoffkait's avatar
geoffkait
23,365 posts
 
Somebody hasn’t been paying very close attention. I’ve already shared the secrets for the springs I use. Wake up and smell the coffee! ☕️
bdp24's avatar
bdp24
10,081 posts
 

@uberwaltz and @elizabeth, the idea I came up with when I first saw Barry Diament's big Maggies on roller bearings, but transferred to my carpeted room and the pair of Tympani IVa I thought I would be able to shoehorn into that room (alas, that was not possible :-( ) was this:

Make a base plate out of Maple/Baltic Birch plywood/etc., and install three spikes in it to raise it off the carpet enough to make it stable (three is inherently stable, four a chore), and level it. Mount the Maggie feet/stand/base plate onto a similar piece of wood (may as well make it the same size as the one on the floor), and place the wood-mounted Maggie on top of the base plate/bottom piece of wood, with a trio of roller bearings between the two boards.

The same can be done with Geoff's springs, or even with both, using another board. Wood is cheap!

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