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Kimber 12tc incompatibility with ayre my-r twenty

I  am having a problem I have been trying to figure out for the last month . I think I have an answer now . I would like to know if anyone has had any similar experience .
i recently upgraded from an all parasound system with jc-1 , jc-2 , jc-3 to an all ayre stack with kx-r twenty , mx-r twenty, Qx-5 twenty, px-5 and cx-5. I retained all the kimber cables and speakers kef blade 2 speakers that I had.
The sound was phenomenal, so romantic so clean , amazing vocals , so powerful at the same time . I loved it, gave me goosebumps.
But the power amp would turn off to standby when I played it real loud .
i reached out to ayre. They have the best customer service in the entire audio business. Amazing group of people who love music and their products and stand behind their products. We tried a lot of trouble shooting and finally figured it was the kimber 12tc speaker cable as the culprit. With cheap Best Buy speaker cables the system functions flawlessly. They felt it had to do with high frequency oscillation or rf as the cables are not well shielded.
has anyone had similar experiences
I have reached out to kimber to get their input.
thank you .

newtoncr
newtoncr OP
151 posts
 
@stringreen . Can you tell me what you found that was disappointing about cardas and you liked about audioquest. I had quite the opposite opinion. The cardas seemed more,  for a lack of better word “romantic” to me through my stack. 

stringreen's avatar
stringreen
6,467 posts
 
Sure....everyone has their preferences as what they like.  When I got my Ayre stuff, I also got the Ayre cables.  I was excited and fine with the system until a friend brought over a couple of Nordost that he liked.  The difference was incredible...like a different system.  The Ayre was grainy, closed in, etc.  Ayre's cables are made by Cardas....I called Cardas and ultimately got to Colleen, who suggested a different Cardas.  Eventually, I got through 3 or 4 different "levels" of Cardas, but they all had the same basic character that I couldn't live with. ....on the other hand, the Nordost was as though the tv color (or something) was set too high....cartoony.  I tried Purist - (great but rolled off in the highs...made the system sound like tubes).... Kimber, Audioquest (interesting that I liked the Wm F Lowe Signatures less than the top silvers) ...what I'm really saying is that you have to try cables in your own system to hear if you find Nirvana. That is the glory quest of this hobby.
newtoncr OP
151 posts
 
Yes totally agree 😊. Expensive hobby and everyone around you( family and work ) thinks there is something wrong with you lol . Everyone has their eye roll 🙄. Haha 
adg101
1,062 posts
 
Curious why not set your amps behind or beside your speakers and run a balanced cable from your preamp to your amps if you have a balance preamp? Yes, your amps are going to be out in the open but they’re beautiful.
mike_in_nc
1,147 posts
 
I was also wondering about what @adg101 said,
Curious why not set your amps behind or beside your speakers and run a balanced cable from your preamp to your amps if you have a balance preamp? Yes, your amps are going to be out in the open but they’re beautiful.
Since you have monoblocks, you could reduce the speaker cable length to nearly zero -- and it's the speaker cables that carry a high-level, low-impedance signal to a reactive load. A long balanced interconnect of the right type will have next to no effect on the sound. Whether you like the result is another matter, but it's the path I'd be likely to take with the sort of gear you have. It could be a startling improvement.

My gear is significantly less costly, but I do use 25' balanced interconnects and short (5') speaker cables with a stereo amp. After doing an extensive comparison, 3 very experienced audiophiles (two are professionals) and I concluded that interconnects made with Mogami cable were far less colored than an "audiophile" pair with MSRP 22x as much.
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