What are the advantages to a Class A amp & what are the trade offs?


I've never had a class a amp but am considering one now. So what am I getting myself into?
128x128artemus_5
Needless to point out, perhaps, but here goes:

Maybe Class A as a topology term and how it’s actually and truly implemented has become somewhat muddied. We may think to have been confronted with "Class A" sound in some iteration listening to various amps, but it mayn’t have been the case in the true sense of the word.
I’m only trying to suggest that the real benefits of pure Class A could’ve escaped a listener or two when in actuality what has been listened to was a watered down version of the concept as a "high bias" or "Class A up until a few watts" amp, trickery that would seem to sonically fall short of a true, pure Class A implementation.
Come to think of it many may feel the honest power output of a pure Class A amp, certainly as a numeric value, is a limiting factor when most audiophiles use low to moderately sensitive speakers, not that it’s necessarily a giveaway into the real-world capabilities of such a (potentially successful) pairing.

That’s also saying: be realistic with regard to the output power you’ll get from a true Class A amplifier - most likely getting anywhere near 100 watts will mean massive consumption, heat and size, so instead expect going for <50 watts if you intend to stay true to concept, so to speak.
And of course, price. Handling these amounts of heat requires very high quality components, large heatsinks and proper casing/ventilation if many years of trouble free service is to be expected. Then again, being topologically more simple than Class A/B amps and possibly even dispensing with a balanced configuration will save number of components used, with more money that can be allotted to the componentry that are - where it matters most.


... Our industry’s marketing people love to find ways to make products more appealing to consumers, which is why we have seen a never-ending race for higher power. High power is better!! But Class A is a great buzz word too and so you also see this creep into the marketing material. High power and Class A, what could be better? The truth is that high power and Class A are pretty much mutually exclusive. It is reasonably easy to achieve Class A in single chassis designs up to about 100 watts but beyond that it becomes extremely difficult because of the heat.

A number of “tricks” have been used to claim both high power and Pure Class A. While it is perfectly OK to bias an amplifier into partial Class A while allowing additional power for short term transient headroom often this is done without declaring the true operating parameters. Commonly the amplifier is claimed to be “Pure” Class A, and yet only delivers Class A performance up to a percentage of its output power. Other schemes have been invented that cause the amplifier to vary its Class A operation depending on how loud the music is. The idea being that it only runs in Class A to as high a power as needed moment to moment, and thence avoids the heat. This causes the music to modulate the amplifier’s design parameters, and in turn introduces other forms of distortion.

How do you tell determine the truth? Its easy really, just ask what the amplifier’s Class A power consumption is when there is no music playing. Take the number you are given (Watts) and divide by two for a mono amplifier, or four for a stereo amplifier. The number you get is the maximum power that the amplifier could possibly deliver in Pure Class A without some trickery.


http://www.pureaudio.co.nz/?page_id=165


Never buy based on design, etc. Buy based on how it sounds.
+1 to that by @millercarbon. I see many audiophiles who pay a lot of attention to the particular technology used in a product. To a large degree, the sound of a product comes from general implementation and engineering, not the class of operation, the chip used, and so on.

Also +1 to those who warned about heat. It is a real factor in choosing power amps, and Class A typically runs hottest.
To a large degree, the sound of a product comes from general implementation and engineering, not the class of operation, the chip used, and so on.

It’s a design choice. Ralph Karsten designs his Atma-sphere amps to run in Class A.
So does Tim de Paravicini. I believe it’s a design to lower distortion and colouration.
Nelson Pass designs some of the Pass amps and First Watt to operate exclusively in Class A.

I own an EAR Push-Pull Class A amp and the sonics are a  clean reproduction of the recorded material. The downside is the heat generated from the amp. But this was not a consideration when choosing which amp to buy, I chose the component based on performance and  
sound quality. 


People never complain of heat with tube amps only with SS class A amps. Yes, unless you get some trick Boulder or Krell design, class A amps run hot. The biggest problem with this is durability. Nothing benefits from recurrent heat cycling. A well built class AB amp will out live a class A amp built to the same spec. So, if you can find an AB amp that you really like, go for it. The problem is I can't. Not only that but power is everything. It is not unusual to have 12 db transients in music. That would be 16 times the power. So if you were cruising along at 8 watts and said transient comes along that will cost you 128 watts. If your amp can not support that you clip. Unfortunately for Boston Edison I am in love with big, heavy, powerful class A amplifiers. The best compromise may be the one that John Curl landed on which is build a big, heavy 400 watt class AB amp and bias it up to run 25 watts into 8 ohms class A. 
I wish I could tell you why class A amps sound better but I can not. Is it psychological? I do not think so. It is very hard to find a luke warm review of a class A amp. It might be because of the over built power supplies these amps usually come with that makes them sound more powerful than they actually are. There is also a certain airy effortlessness these amps seem to have that I have not heard in either AB or D amps. I favor the warmer tube like sound of Pass and Curl amplifiers. Some prefer the drier low distortion Boulder version. You either have to have a bunch of consistently good reviews,  try the amp in your system or a system like it before you pull the trigger. Of all the electronics in your system the amplifiers will make the biggest difference in sound quality. 
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