the Bryston 14BSST would go into protection mode from overheating due to the impedance. With these sorts of speakers like the CS5 ect it’s no wonder, these tested figures show it was definitely no current master into low impedances 8ohm load 690w 4ohm load a reasonable 1000w 2ohm load it barely got off the 8ohm mark at 720w, very sad. Cheers George |
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With these sorts of speakers like the CS5 ect it’s no wonder, these tested figures show it was definitely no current master into low impedances 8ohm load 690w 4ohm load a reasonable 1000w 2ohm load it barely got off the 8ohm mark at 720w, very sad." That probably was the beginning of what turned me off to mainstream dealer sold companies (not that Bryston is anything but a good company). Before I bought the 14BSST, I was using a 6BSST on the front (3) channels. As noted the room in my old house was huge. I had a 4BST at one point and it was clear that was at its limit driving the (Thiel) 7.2s. I corresponded back and forth many times with Bryston about the 15 vs. 20 amp version of the 14BSST. When I had the old house built (basically in mostly in the first half of 1997), I specified I wanted an extra receptacle on its own circuit in addition to what would be behind the audio system. I found later they used a 20 amp breaker but just used 14 ga. wire. Anyway, the purpose of many communications (with lots of detail) going back and forth is I wanted an upgrade to the 6BSST (and in my old room was probably around barely above its limit based on my old 4BST where I had situations where it would almost go into protection mode) and then just use the 6BSST on the center and surrounds. I guess they just didn't want to admit that the 15 amp version of the 14BBST wouldn't drive my 7.2s. Before I sold the 14BSST, I sent it back to Bryston to have a check-up to make sure it was OK and it tested fine. When I spoke to the technician and went into detail over the phone and told him my Modwright KWA150 SE drove the 7.2s better, he just told me that was (literally) impossible. I may not be a technician but can feel heat and the protection circuits certainly confirmed the heat felt. The guy I sold the 14BSST to had B&Ws so I didn't think he'll have an issue with it (and he didn't). So that was the beginning (and in combination with the fact that there are fewer brick and mortar 2-channel dealers than there used to be vs. stuff like custom installers who don't have showrooms) about a dozen years back of what pushed me more in the direction to look at things that are sold consumer direct. When one considers the cost of materials/quality that one gets at the price point, it is just off the charts compared to what gets from going to a brick and mortar dealer. One may not be able to go to such a route for all purchases for various preferences and purposes but it is a strong consideration for me personally. I have multiple systems (including one with a Hegel H190 and one with another with a Class D amp using the IcePower AS1200 stereo module) in different rooms and I'm quite satisfied that if I were to walk into a store the EVS 1200 would compete favorably to amps between $10-15000 (my Modwright was $9k list and the Bryston 14BSST was not a cheapie either) and if I went to buy either the Modwright or Bryston today used, I'd likely be paying almost double what my EVS 1200 costs new and I already know which amp is easily much better in my system. |
Rhetorical question: which hypothetical amplifier has more power to drive 2 ohms speakers? Amplifier A: 100W at 8 ohms 200W at 4 ohms 400W at 2 ohms Amplifier B: 400W at 8 ohms 700W at 4 ohms 550W at 2 ohms Amplifier A doubles power for each half impedance. Amplifier B has more power at 2 ohms. Just because A is voltage limited at higher impedances, does not mean it supplies more current at 2 ohms than amplifier B. I would (and actually did) choose to buy amplifier B. |
I would (and actually did) choose to buy amplifier B. Good quality sound? into hard speaker loads it’s all about current. If you wanted the "best sound (not volume)" into speakers that dip to below 2ohm for most of the bass, then you chose poorly, A would be better sounding overhaul "to a given volume level". http://3844s14.tracigardner.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/youchosewisely.jpg But if your a head banger and needed volume level, then you chose right in B. But if the volume of B was as the "same volume" as A, it would not be as good so you chose poorly https://waserpa.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/He-chose-poorly-2-1.jpg Cheers George |
