Preamp Output Capacitor: Mundorf Supreme vs. Supreme Silver Oil


Anyone compared the bass response of these two caps?  I bought the Supremes for trial purposes and really loved what they did to my system's imaging (front to back layering) and immediately bought the Silver Gold Oil Supremes.  Unfortunately while they were smoother, more beautiful, and even better at imaging, they had no bass (actually, they lost bass as they broke in).  Anyone know how the Silver Oil's fit into the line?  

I'm using them in a Don Sach's DS2 Preamp ( https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/7983).  

Thanks.
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Also, I just discovered the thread I cited above did have some s/g/o to silver in oil comparisons. It was hard to explicitly search for differences because the only difference in terms is gold (and people write out the cap names variably).

Looks like maybe supreme silver oils do have better bass.

@alexberger and I'll probably also try some Duelund tinned copper. Thinking about putting those on one output and one of the Mundorfs on the other.
Those Duelund tinned copper caps are so special. If you can afford those, they will easily surpass the Mundorf caps in every sonic area. I think you suspect that is true.  They are pricy! 
Yes, actually the original reason I started modifying the capacitors was because the miflexs were right on the edge of being too small for my amplifier's input impedance.
Be careful- just increasing capacitor values can get you into trouble. The output section probably the least, but in many cases, the designer is juggling the inductance that a larger capacitor has against the capacitance- and has arrived at a value that has the best compromise between bass bandwidth and coloration. Bass bandwidth good, coloration bad :)

(This is why we have direct coupled outputs on our preamps- this problem is avoided.)
There is a timing constant involved (which sounds like you might already know) the formula is F = 1/R x C x 2Pi
Its a bit inconvenient as stated, but if you replace 1,000,000 for the 1, then R will be in ohms, C will be in microfarads and F will be in Hz. Ideally you want the -3dB point (which is what this formula gives you) to be no more than 2Hz- allowing the preamp to then have no phase shift at 20Hz which will give you neutral bass. R in this case is the input impedance of the amplifier.
I'm in the same boat with Don Sachs II and 2 outputs. One for 100 kOhms (tube amplifier) and one for 20 Kohms (Accuphase). In the first one is a Miflex 0.47 uF and in the second one AudioCap Theta 3 uF bypassed by russian teflon 0.02 uF. Studying an upgrade for the second out but capacitors of 3 uF are very large. Maybe a Mundorf will fit. Interested in your topic. From Brazil.
@atmasphere Thanks Ralph, I've just been cheating by using the calculator at vh audio (https://www.v-cap.com/coupling-capacitor-calculator.php). Fortunately because the pre is basically an advanced kit, I do have some ideas of what range is normal for use. 

I also just leaned that I can change the resistor on my amplifier (diy first watt f4s and sit3s) to a any value within a decent range. Moved both up to a 200k input impedance to allow for the use of smaller caps.