The Truth About Power Cords and there "Real" Price to Performance

Not sure what your correct gauge for the circuit is supposed to convey. I am not arguing one way or the other, I just don't see the relevance. Peak currents on the AC waveform can be higher than average rating to AC waveform modulation at the equipment can happen. Obviously the run breaker box to wall plug is more important as is equipment to equipment ground.  Again, not saying the cord will make a difference, just don't think that statement about gauge and current is relevant.

My power cord test involved a good-quality CD player (Oppo 105) and a good-quality set of headphones (Sennheiser HD800.) The CD player has a headphone output, and so I chose a familiar CD and listened to the sound quality from each power cord in the test. The PC was the only variable in a controlled test. My sound quality target was what I was used to hearing through my Woo Audio WA22 headphone amplifier with a set of premium NOS tubes (such as the WE421 power tubes.) 

I began with the CD connected to my power conditioner using the stock cord. The sound was unlistenable. Of course, it's easy to blame the headphone output in ANY component, especially inexpensive ones. Then I moved up the power cord food chain, starting with the least-expensive PC from a small shop that cost $75 - a noticeable improvement, but still pretty dreadful sounding.

I made a series of moves to higher costing PCs that I had accumulated in my quest for truth, using better small-shop offerings that cost $150 to $250. To my surprise, the sound quality from the headphones was now quite listenable. If I had to live with this limited headphone system, this CD player and power cord would be all I needed. Total cost: $3K.

When I moved up to the expensive category of commercial PCs ($1,000 to $3,000 - which I buy at 1/2 retail or less) the sound quality improved by another significant amount. It now started to sound like the reference sound from the headphone amplifier.

So, there you have it: a "poor-man's test" of the effect of power cords. When it's the only variable, the results can only be attributed to the power cord - or to one's own delusions. 

Worry not: the Woo still won the day, but it was because of a better output mechanism and quality amplification that provide the delivery of the more nuanced qualities that separate good sound from really excellent sound. Unfortunately, that move costs a lot of money. And as someone already pointed out, the money should go first to better components and not to a better power cord.

Hey dynaquest what exactly is "unearned" money?


By the way, I dont feel there is ever any need to preface anything stated with an "in my opinion" as this is universally understood as a given. 

mambacfa,

Not to rain on your parade, but if your test had been made blind, i.e.  you had no clue what cord was attached at any point in time, your test would have validity. You may think you have superhuman hearing, but you could have just as easily proved confirmation bias as you did sound differences.

@turnbowm - which Bryston do you have?
- I have the B135 integrated - great value and quality.

I find your approach is very sound (’scuse the pun)...

So, I purchased one of the better performing (and more expensive) cords for my Ayre and another inexpensive cord for the LTA, saving myself several hundred dollars in the process."

And for components of the quality level of Bryston and LTA, one would need the very best power cables to achieve discernible improvements and that equates to $$$

My experience has been that (most) all components will benefit from a better power cable.

Since I make my own cables that use a Helix cable geometry (i.e. I do not simply add connectors to bulk cable) and I use them on all my components, so I did not even try the stock power cable that came with my Bryston.
- But it looked pretty standard, so I do believe it would impact the overall sound - to some extent.

Selection of "the right cable" is the challenge and most of the brands out there are not up to this task.

One brand I do regard as "worthy" for amps of this quality is Nordost. - Even so, I would probably select one of their higher end models.

As always, it all depends on how much one is willing to spend on this insane hobby.

Happy Listening - Steve