WD-40 for electronics

I should clarify when I said that WD40 is not snake oil, I was meaning if you use it for its intending purpose, which is not electronics uses.  

I've tried Stabilant 22A and it didn't turn into green goop, maybe the "A" was a refinement of the formula?  Anyway it is not a cleaner which is what we're generally talking about.  You need to clean the oxidization off various contact points occasionally.  Even RCA's on the back of your gear.  You won't be able to see the oxidization unless it's really bad, but cleaning at least once a year is good.

The Stabilant 22A is a product that puts a very thin coating on the RCA jacks, for instance.  When you then connect the cable and use, as electricity passes through the stabilant, it becomes some sort of super conductive material that enhances the connection point.  

For me the jury was out as I'm not sure it works well if you are frequently unplugging and replugging RCA's or speaker cables.  No green goop for me though.

Oddly enough, the deoxit Gold products did produce a green film over time.  Not sure if i was using too much...

wd40, NO.  But I had used it to free it up a frozen volume control on an old  (antique?) table radio.  But later  flushed it out with a regular contact cleaner.   I have had very good results using Radio Shack's Tuner Cleaner.

I think wd40 was used in my used ebay preamp volume control. Sure smelt like it. Scratchy, dirty, hard turning gunked up.   Radio Shack being no more, I used this cleaner that the mechanics use on our helicopters. I think it was the GC that was mentioned.  Pilferage but they won't miss a few squirts.  And not being in the repair business anymore, I didn't want to spend $12.00 for one use.  
I hesitated on using De-Oxit in potentiometers.  It might mistake the carbon film as oxidation and deox it.  External connections, great.

 When you then connect the cable and use, as electricity passes through the stabilant, it becomes some sort of super conductive material that enhances the connection point.

Unless it hardens, it will migrate. How does it insulate across the plastic and conduct across the metal?

The alcohol evaporates and leaves a thin film coating.  Let it dry, don’t let it migrate.

WD40 is a bomb in a can. It's highly flammable. I have never liked it. If you are after something along those lines look at LPS products. They actually make a dry film lubricant for electrical use that insulates from moisture. I am not advocating the use in electronic components until you have researched specific products.

https://www.itwprobrands.com/category-list-brand/lubricants/lps