Recent upgrade to Cronus Magnum

Don’t change all tubes at the same time, so start with say the 12ax7 and live with them for a while.
messing around with tubes can also be a rabbit hole. As an owner of several Rogue amps who,s rolled a lot of tubes in them, I am not sure going crazy with rolling tubes will be as productive as you think, but try in it stages and save money. Most of the new Rogue amps are not super tubey but shouldn’t be dry or harsh as u mention. I love the sound of my 99 pre amp with stereo 100. I also recommend Andy at Vintage TS so long as he answers the phone! Good luck.

I too had a similar experience with the Rogue Cronus Magnum ii. I am, by no means, an expert and I am only relaying my impressions. This was probably 5 yeas ago and the Cronus was my third step of upgrades with tube gear and I was really let down by its lack of “tube sound”. I now have all separate tube gear in my analog chain (phono preamp, line preamp and SET monoblock power amps. Ironically, I too have the same Cambridge Audio Azur that I use only as my DAC while streaming).

I am surprised no one has mentioned what I consider to be the single greatest factor to why the Cronus lacks what I call the tube sound. This being that it has solid state rectification. I know that some people actually like this and Rogue markets it as one of the benefits in some of their models. All of the pieces in my current chain have tube rectification. To me this has been the real key to getting more tube sound. I have had two experiences with tube gear that use a solid state rectifier, the Cronus and the Cary Audio SLI-80HS*. Both the Rogue and the Cary lacked the warmth and space I was seeking. And, like a few have mentioned here, I went down the rabbit hole with both the Cary and the Rogue trying countless NOS tube combinations and spending gobs of money. Fortunately, I have been able to use some of those tubes, with great results, in subsequent tube gear. Also, I have had a couple Cary pieces since this one that use tube rectification and have loved them (including my current phono preamp, the Cary PH302-MKII).

Again, this is personal preference and many people actually prefer what the combo of solid state rectification and tubes offer. Just not me. I want tubes to sound like tubes.

Hope this helps.

Jared

*interestingly enough, I read about a year ago that Rogue was suing Cary over the use of solid state rectification in tube amplifiers claiming they stole a design. Haven’t heard whether or not it was settled.

Just as a point of interest...I believe the classic Cary SLI-80 did use tube rectification, where as the current (HS?) model does not. I have heard from someone whose ears I trust the old 80 is a hell of sweet amp. Agree with all of the above that advise to tread slowly with tube rolling. 

Surprised no-one has asked. Have you checked the bias?

Hi, my 2 pennies worth . I have a Rogue pre . My close friend that lives nearby is a former Rogue Dealer . He has a Chronus Magnum II in his office . A Rogue Hera pre with M180’s in his main system. So I’m familiar with their sound. I am thinking that all your tubes are well used ? A new quad of power tubes is a must, as they will sound brittle and edgy when tired . New production Gold Lion KT 88’s or Tung Sol KT 120’s if the early Chronus  will support them . The Tung Sols make substantial bass and still have good mids and highs . I have tried EVERY driver tube mentioned in this thread . And I absolutely would choose NOS Telefunkens and am surprised they weren’t mentioned . On a budget nos Tesla and Tungsram sound similar. I run Telefunken G-73R’s in my pre. Rogue generally suggest trying a nos Mullard as they smooth things out . But it’s like putting a blanket over your speakers , or pushing the Dolby button on your tape player . The Rogue amps are all SS power supply ( no rectifier tube ) so you can’t drop the voltage and mellow the sound . But they do recommend under certain conditions lowering the bias voltage . Quality driver tubes make a huge difference. So now your at an expense crossroad . You could consider having the amp serviced and/or upgraded to current specs . But first I would get a quad of new power tubes. New nos driver tubes . Where I’m totally lost is how it pairs with your speakers , as I haven’t had those . And that’s a big deal . Now here’s a story . My friends M180’s were over powering his Speakers and he was advised by Rogue to lower the bias first . He wasn’t satisfied and was directed to replace the power tubes with new Gold Lion KT 77’s and play with the bias setting . I HIGHLY SUGGEST , that you read the driver tube sound descriptions on the Brent Jesse website. After spending $2K on various nos driver tubes , I can attest it’s SPOT ON ! I haven’t shopped there however, but hear good stuff . I’ve also been recommended to Andy at Vintage Tube Service by wholesale and manufacturers. I purchase new production power tubes from Tube Depot when they run a 20% off sale and ask for matching and 24 hour burn in . I have a Dennis Had amp ( Cary founder ) and Zu speakers . My system runs bright . I have Amperex , Seimens CCa , Tesla , Mullard ,RCA , Phillips amongst my stash and have found the Telefunkens to deliver a full sound without being overly bright . I run a Schiit Yiggy DAC and a modded Thorens TD 160 with a Grado cartridge. I’ve had to avoid any silver in my wires as it gets too bright also . I hope my rambling has provided some help . Happy Listening , Mike B.