DIY cables

OKAY MC what cables do you use.

Cryogenically treated 4ga wire comes in the wall and is hard wired into the Medusa along with the dedicated ground and 110V AC that after going through the conditioner goes back into the wall and up and across the ceiling to the projector. These wires are all covered in mesh.

The stock Origin Live tone arm cables coming out of the Conqueror tone arm are retro-modded to add Active Shielding. Ditto the Verus motor umbilical. These are not DIY cables these are adding Active Shielding as a mod after the fact.

Herron to Melody is Synergistic Research Atmosphere Level III Euphoria IC grounded to dedicated system earth ground.

Melody to Khorus speakers is SR Element Copper Tungsten Silver speaker cables with Active Shielding, MPCs modded with caps and diodes by Michael Spallone and hardwired into the Medusa with Audio Consulting isolation transformer and a bunch of top secret magic stuff by me and my Fight Club pal.

There’s another IC that looks like a ribbon, that one I think is Jungson and in the system pics is connected to the Oppo CDP but not pictured is a little adaptor. I usually watch movies off my laptop. For movies the laptop goes on top of the Oppo, the adaptor and the HDMI cable you can see laying there goes in the laptop, and I just move the one IC back and forth between the CDP and the laptop.

The HDMI cable is Cobalt. Its cryo’d. There’s another HDMI cable coming out of the wall, you can see it laying there on the floor just behind the amp. Its abandoned. I had 2 HDMI one for cable one for DVD/laptop.

Power cords are Synergistic Master Coupler going to the Oppo, Synergistic Resolution Reference to the Herron, and 2 Shunyata whatever’s going to the Verus motor controller and the Melody.

There's an embarassingly crappy no-name IC going to the Dayton sub amps. Then from one sub amp to the Talon Roc sub is another Jungson IC.

There’s 2 cheesy looking ElectraGlide Fat Boys going straight into the Dayton amps. One has "Cryo" written on it. That’s a vestige of way back when I was DYODD on cryo I had a few things done keeping one stock to compare. But those are Electraglide not DIY.

The power cords are at this point the weakest of all. Except I just wrapped them and everything else with some top secret magic stuff I can’t tell anyone about that elevated their performance well into kilo-buck thin air. But I did not say this. I was not here. (Yes Guild Navigator speak. Deal with it.)

Correct me if I’m wrong but there appears to be a diy braided speaker cable in one or two of your photos?

That’s the complete list. Where on the list, where in the system description do you see any mention of Miller Cables. Because I am rather proud of the stuff I build. When it works. When it doesn’t, you won’t see it. Which is why its not there. If I posted pics of all my failures.... DIY cables would be in there. Utter waste of time. It was the Active Shielding mods, that’s what you thought was DIY?

Oh crap! Looking at my system pics I just realized there is one supposedly DIY cable in there. Which I totally forgot about because I didn't make it. I bought the sub used and the seller included a long gray rubber power cord which you can see going along the wall in one of the pics. He told me this was made custom for him by someone, I forget, pretty sure he said it was Cardas wire or something. Anyway he was really proud and pleased to be including this wonderful sounding DIY power cord. So of course the first thing I did was hook it up and compare. Well of course it was nowhere near as good as anything else I have and only maybe very slightly better than a factory freebie rubber POC. Which being 2-3x as long I guess you could say its better in that respect. Whatever. Point is the one thing that is DIY actually makes my point that DIY sucks. Fortunately subs are very insensitive to things like that so there it is and there it stays.

@audiomaze - take a look at these...

http://image99.net/blog/index.html

The perform great, having exceptional dynamics, clarity and details and an enormous image..

I use them throughout my entire system and it has never sounded so good

They are a little more expensive than the 'normal" DIY cables, but then - you get what you pay for

If you have any questions just ask

Regards - Steve

Steve are these anticables?

@audiomaze - the interconnects share a similar geometry to the anticables interconnects, but they are not Anticables

I developed the same geometry based on my own thoughts about how to overcome cable design issues several years ago (2012 I think). I guess great minds think alike :-)

It was not until I had developed power cables (in 2015) that I became aware of the similarities between my own Helix geometry cables and the Anticables IC’s. My last adaption was to develop speaker cables using the same geometry

My Interconnects...
- If you look at Anticables pictures of higher end IC’s you will see multiple signal wires - I only ever use a single wire.
- the signal wire I use is audiophile grade from Duelund(stranded tinned copper) or Mundorf (solid silver+gold) 
- the neutral wire is twice the gauge of the signal wire and made from silver plated cryo’d Mil-spec wire
- I now use cotton sleeve only over the signal wire
- I use a ratio of 3:1 Signal wire : Neutral wire

Since I have never owned or used Anticables IC’s I am unable comment as to their similarity or effectiveness.

I have applied the "Helix" geometry to speaker cables and power cables.

Anticables does not employ the Helix geometry on any of their power cables or speaker cables.

A lot of research has gone inot what is the best wire to use, by myself and others who has built them - what is posted on the website is the cumulative effort/knowledge of many people across the globe

Hoper that answers your question - Steve