Miller, changes I heard with PC's were a little blacker background, increased dynamics. I've gotten much more sonic change with ICs and speaker cables. And I know you're a guy who is a serious tweaker....more power to you. That's what makes this hobby fun, the way you can constantly fiddle around with your setup
Synergistic Research AC Master Coupler on all Components including Subs Over-Kill
I've done' a bit of reading on power cables. One cable that keeps coming up in discussions is the
Synergistic Research AC Master Coupler.
Also, I read Nordost's Foundation Theory paper. https://www.nordost.com/dealer%20downloads/FoundationTheory.pdf
In this paper's information they state, "Consistency is King!" It goes on to read, "Use the same power cords to feed all the key components in the system. Once you have an audiophile cord between the wall and your distribution block, make sure that any further cords are of the same type or, at the very least use the same technology and materials. This usually means employing AC cords from a single manufacturer."
Millercarbon often suggests the- Synergistic Research AC Master Coupler. I've done enough research that with patience, I can purchase this cable around the $250 - 350 range.
A couple of questions:
1. Would it be "overkill" purchasing Synergistic Research AC Master Coupler for all of my six components that can use an upgraded power cord (my DAC is vintage and has a fixed power cord). If helpful the component are:- IsoTek EVO3 Aquarius power conditioner
- Primaluna integrated tube amp.
- VPI Classic Signature TT- Manley Chinook Phone Stage
- two Rel S/3 subwoofers
2. Is the suggestion of employing power cords of the same type and from the same manufacturer hold any water among the folks here at Audiogon?
3. Could the Rel S/3 be plugged into the medium power outlets of the my Power Conditioner? Those medium-current outlets deliver 1,150W continuous power. I gotta think the answer is yes, but I gotta ask! The sub's manual states it draws 22 watts at idle. I have no clue what current they draw at my listening levels. Not terribly loud.
Thanks!
Also, I read Nordost's Foundation Theory paper. https://www.nordost.com/dealer%20downloads/FoundationTheory.pdf
In this paper's information they state, "Consistency is King!" It goes on to read, "Use the same power cords to feed all the key components in the system. Once you have an audiophile cord between the wall and your distribution block, make sure that any further cords are of the same type or, at the very least use the same technology and materials. This usually means employing AC cords from a single manufacturer."
Millercarbon often suggests the- Synergistic Research AC Master Coupler. I've done enough research that with patience, I can purchase this cable around the $250 - 350 range.
A couple of questions:
1. Would it be "overkill" purchasing Synergistic Research AC Master Coupler for all of my six components that can use an upgraded power cord (my DAC is vintage and has a fixed power cord). If helpful the component are:- IsoTek EVO3 Aquarius power conditioner
- Primaluna integrated tube amp.
- VPI Classic Signature TT- Manley Chinook Phone Stage
- two Rel S/3 subwoofers
2. Is the suggestion of employing power cords of the same type and from the same manufacturer hold any water among the folks here at Audiogon?
3. Could the Rel S/3 be plugged into the medium power outlets of the my Power Conditioner? Those medium-current outlets deliver 1,150W continuous power. I gotta think the answer is yes, but I gotta ask! The sub's manual states it draws 22 watts at idle. I have no clue what current they draw at my listening levels. Not terribly loud.
Thanks!
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- 16 posts total
Thanks for the suggestions. Now I’m considering bucking up into the $600 - 1000 range (and that’s pushing it) for "not so entry level" power cord for the wall receptacle to the power conditioner and then add on with the "entry level cords: per se’. My first thought is that I’d get more bang for the buck going used but are the newer models significantly better then older that would warrant consideration with the budget of $600 - $1,000? I don’t care to churn my power cords over time. I’d like be "one and done" as far as this one power cord that will energize the power conditioner. Over time, I’d get power cords for the other components. The advice here will help me in that endeavor too. For example, here are four used and two new Power Cords. If anyone cares to share their thoughts on them as "best bang for the buck" and or my approach placing a better cord on the power conditioner first and then placing the entry level cords on the other components, I’d certainly appreciate any input. I’ve been looking at the the following yesterday and today. 1. Used - $775; Synergistic Research Tesla Precision AC (20 Amp IEC) with MPC 6.5ft/2m Power cables https://www.usedcable.com/power-cables/synergistic-research-tesla-precision-ac-20-amp-iec-with-mpc-6ft-2m-power-cables.html 2. Used: $900; Synergistic Research Element Tungsten AC Power Cord https://www.audiogon.com/listings/lisa05ii-synergistic-research-element-tungsten-ac-power-cord-ac-cables?refsource=hifishark 3. Used: $949; Synergistic Research Absolute Reference Power Cable https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649589065-synergistic-research-absolute-reference-power-cable/ 4. Used: $2,025; Six cables that fits my system perfectly (lengths of cords, that is). Four - Synergistic Research AC Master & Two - Designer Reference Series Power Cords https://www.ebay.com/itm/264125244299?ul_noapp=true Certainly not a hot steaming deal, but fair, I believe. Because they are the exact lengths I can use, it would certainly be convenient.....one stop shopping! 5. New: - $649; Synergistic Research UEF Blue 10awg HC Power Cord - https://www.thecableco.com/synergistic-research-uef-blue-hc-10awg-power-cord.html 6. New - $995 Synergistic Research Atmosphere X Alive Level 1 Power Cord - https://www.thecableco.com/atmosphere-x-alive-level-1-power-cord.html |
Used I would lean towards the Tesla, especially because I know how easy it is to have the Active modded, either DIY or Michael Spallone, and how much improvement that will be. Element Tungsten would be a good choice if you care a lot about midrange and want it as beautifully detailed and yet smooth and deep as can be. CTS is better- Copper improves the bass, Silver the top end- but Tungsten is awesome with midrange. In terms of new the Atmosphere line is awesome. My Atmosphere Level III interconnect opened things up to a whole new level. I've heard a lot of Ted's stuff over the years. Nothing negative about the rest but nobody his record over the years is such that you cannot go wrong. There's little details like MPC mods but aside from that you can pretty safely assume that the more you pay the better you get- which is not at all true across the industry. Where I think it gets hard is allocating resources. Alive is a lot better than Blue. No question. But $350 better? That would buy you two Orange Fuses. Which an Orange Fuse at $160 is way better than most $500 power cords. That's about it for me. Last thought would be, just call Ted. The guy loves this stuff and fully believes in my style of bringing everything up to around the same level. Call and tell him what you have, your plans, your preferences, let him help you out. Maybe not so much if you want to go used. Although maybe even then. From what I have heard he is the kind of guy if he thinks a Tesla or other used cable is the way to go he will let you know. But for sure if you will be buying new. |
Millercarbon... I was mistaken about the tesla. I listed the wrong one from the website. There is a Tesla with 15 amp IEC. Ok, I’m planning on calling Ted tomorrow but figured I’d ask the following question if anyone cares to engage. As I look around, I see some differences in power cords that I don’t understand, and I’m not having much luck finding a lot if any info on the topic. A. Starting with basic high end power cords, they don’t have an MPC. Just all cord. B. Some older cords, relatively speaking, have an MPC and tuning bullets. C. Some of the newer cords don’t have an MPC but refer to: Active / UEF Shielding with built in power supplies, no MPC’s and no additional wires. Questions:1. What is an MPC and what does it do for a power cord? Just the basics are good for me, I probably wouldn’t understand an engineers explanation! No offense. 2. What are tuning bullets and how are they integrated into the system. Do you actually turn them as you would a treble knob (feel free to giggle)? Or are they simply inserted into the circuit. 3. Is there an advantage of having an MPC, i.e., modding it? 4. Is there something that can C do that B can’t or is it simply a convenience not having extra components, such as an MPC as part of the power cord. Ha! Typical. I started looking at 200 used cords, now I’m looking at $1,500 cords. Jeez |
- 16 posts total