What Class D amps will drive a 2 ohm load

@joysjane

Old Infinity speakers were tuned without much regard to impedance. I'm not sure which speakers you have, but I've seen a number of crossover upgrades for them you should consider which fixes these issues.

Good as they originally sounded, they were designed without the tools we have today which would allow for simultaneous optimization of frequency and impedance.

Best,

E

I've owned Kappa 9. X before and after mods to the XO. 10 plus years ago. I sold those speakers and the guy LOVES them. I did too, to tell the truth.

Ampzilla 2000 were the only amp that I owned at the time that would drive ANYTHING, including those.

They were touched by Mr B himself. I got them to actually drive .5-2.0 ohm strathearns ribbons. True amp killers at the time worse than
Kappa 9.  They were flawless, got hot but NEVER shut down. THE KEY was supply voltage for me. 20 amp circuit per amp.

The same when I sold them and went to class Ds.  It was a supply and demand issue for me.

A single 15 or 20 for two monoblocks just couldn't provide the UMPH!! (mechanics term) without loosing the dynamics that Strathearns can provide.  It took two dedicated circuits and voltage maint. of 120. The class Ds sounded stunning, even more so after a break in.
How did I find out? The guy that bought the Kappa 9 went to class Ds at least a year before me. He almost got rid of them and he installed 2 dedicated 15 amp circuits from a single 15. He was amazed the difference in BASS response. From Krells to class D and once the electrical issue was ironed out, it sounded better than the Krells. ZERO floor noise, zip, nada, nothing... Goes to show that the amps PS is a big factor in how it performs. Krells, Big Macs, Pass, serious power supplies.

The class D sounded BETTER, than ANY amp I've used to drive True ribbons, or planars.  As a matter of fact, the only place I run a different typology is in the mids and highs, that only with a GREAT valve amp (over 22K spec), and normally in the winter..700hz down nothing but class D. Just the best.. I use Nords One Up rev B,C,D NC500s x 7 and never a problem. Sparko and SI OpAmps.

I still have a shop full of great amps, and use them, sound great, but these class Ds are SO COOL....

Regards.

One other thing, even VTLs that were sent back to the factory for the drop from 5.2 to 3.6 ohm, still didn't run the strathearns right. No valve amp at the time except Mcintosh MC275s in par or ser mode were 2 ohm stable, Mcintosh was!  Crazy ay, old Mac, 2 ohm stable..I think even GG were too.

Regards, yup yup old macs..

Mcintosh MC275s in par or ser mode were "2 ohm stable"

I've said it before, there is a massive difference in sound driving a speaker that's <2ohms correctly, and saying an amp is just "2ohm stable" and another that can drive down to 2ohms by almost doubling it's wattage down to it, and "remain stable doing it".

As I said before a $100  30w 1980's Nad 3020 integrated is also "2ohm stable" but sound like s**t into a 2ohm load, but hey! "it's 2ohm stable!!!"

Cheers George 

As I said before a $100 30w 1980's Nad 3020 integrated is also "2ohm stable" but sound like s**t into a 2ohm load, but hey! "it's 2ohm stable!!!"

Cheers George

MC275 is a valve amp, no doubling..., most valve amps don't double, why? VTL, Mac, Cary Audio, Carver? why? I don't know why.     

The wattage is the same at 8,4,2 ser or par. It didn't sound like like shi?
same non ser or par. 16,8,4 either 75 wpc or 150 (186 act)  ser or par. There is no doubling. It sounds good at 2 4 6 8 10 12 16, NO DOUBLING..Run warmer, yes, run hot yes, sound bad NO...Same with the class D, they may not double at 2 ohms but they sound, SOUND better than anything close in price. It was mentioned the THD was and is higher the tougher the load, BASS is not a problem. At 20% THD in the bass most people can't tell the difference..Even good ears, 3 out of a 100, might be able to hear 20 plus %. maybe..I'm at less than 5% using phase plugs, and basket termination. and class Ds.

I use to swear I'd never use a class D. Then I listened, with my ears, not my mouth, it's stereo then, not mono. I just shut up and learned, like a good mechanic, I learned.. Their, quieter, less expensive, 15 watt idle, lighter, cooler, VERY easy to work on, opAmp swaps a breeze, black background, ZERO floor noise. 1 ohm able 2 ohm stable, and no HYPER bright, blistering sonics like some amps. 
I don't care what's being used for speakers, if a class d Nord One up can't make it sound GREAT, move on. I bought Wyred 4 Sound and Nord, ICE, and Hypex.. Both have some neat features..Expansion wise

Mac says 2 ohm stable, it means STABLE, nothing more nothing less. It works there, not badly, not anything, but stable.. Nad is not 2 ohm stable it is 2 ohm ABLE, can hit a 2 ohm load, not trip a breaker, not sustained, just able to hit 2 and not blow up, blow fuses, the normal stuff from tough loads. Car audio .5 ohm stable loads. The size of the supply conductor, as I stated before, the key to low ohm loads. TIGHT connection, Very tight, required, not hand tight, wrench tight..  Increase the ability to deliver the AMPS, to the AMPS. Stable AC supply = stable amp...

Respectfully and with regard