How to remove ground pin on power cable


This is a power cable being used for my subwoofer. I have a ground loop currently. According to the manufacturer of my subwoofer, due to it's design, it is perfectly safe to remove the ground. Right now I do so with a cheater plug but I would like to avoid having to use it. The power cable in question is Oyaide Black Mamba V2

How easy is it to take a power cable apart and disconnect the ground? Is it best to do so at the IEC side or the pronged side? What is the process for doing this?

Thanks
nemesis1218
@builder3
AFAIK, the Earth safety is for when lightning hits the electrical service, meaning the power from the street. The mesh of earthed neutrals in the neighborhood might just carry enough current to limit the damage.

Sadly, modern building codes remove all those nice tall utility poles with their fat earths, leaving my roof the highest object in the neighborhood for a ¼ mile.

If my house gets hit, all bets are off.
We have trees. Of course, they're far more likely to crush our house in a storm than get hit by lightning. Whadya gonna do?
miller, as much as I appreciate 99% of your posts, I’m not sure how you defend your position on this. It’s simple. The ground is the only safeguard in the event that any metal item becomes energized due to an equipment defect or failure. 

You're right it is pretty simple. The two wires in a two wire system, only one of them is hot. That's your 120V. The other wire is ground. Technically called neutral but this brings up the first redundancy. There's ground where any voltage potential goes into the actual earth ground. A rod driven deep into the ground. The neutral wire is also ground, only in the common layman's sense of grounding. I don't always get all pedantic in explaining. The ones who know will understand and the others will get triggered and then I can pick and choose whether to ignore the ones who get triggered or try and explain. 

I say try because it hardly ever works. Oh well. 

I don't by the way have a whole lot of respect or patience for "code". Having learned from a journeyman electrician and having wired a whole house, twice, my experience with "code" is some moron making you re-do a whole weeks work because he thinks you should have an extra 1" of wire in the box. Or 1" less. They are that retarded. Meanwhile, in other "code" I have to install hurricane clips to hold my roof on. We have yet to record a hurricane in Seattle. Code can, as the Robert Duvall character in Jack Reacher would say, "Suck it!"

Our house was built in 1952. I can't tell you what the code requirements may have been then. Jim may know. Everything was wired with two-conductor cables, forerunner of romex, I guess. All the boxes, etc, were metal, and they all were connected with a dedicated ground wire, one to the other.
 

Wonderful story. Really. Charmed. What that has to do with anything I haven't the foggiest.

Look. Those old homes. Forget the metal boxes. Forget they are connected. Forget they are grounded. Why? Because I want you to think of something evidently never occurred to you before.

All those outlets they have how many plugs again? Oh yeah- two. And the stuff you plug into them? Two wires, right? One hot, one neutral. Just like I said. 

So now here's the question: When your whatever it is connected with two wires somehow gets energized, of what use exactly is the metal outlet box being grounded? Anyone? Beuller?

None. None at all. What happens is the component, the whatever it is, the neutral wire carries the charge right back to the utility ground. Just like it always does. Which is why nobody electrocuted themselves all those decades using the old system.

Never had anything to do with the outlet boxes being grounded. That my friend is what we call a redundancy. Never did have anything to do with the safety of the stuff plugged into it. Not until the third wire came along. Technically, not even then. The third wire, the true earth ground, is merely another redundancy.

What happened, as if anyone cares, is people with real lives became so wealthy and so comfortably numb they didn't care when the morons who think 1" more or less in the box really matters came along and said, "You've got millivolts of voltage potential on that neutral wire, we can eliminate that infinitesimally micro risk that hasn't caused a single death in a million man-years." And we said, "I don't have the foggiest what "potential" means but "voltage" sounds scary so yeah sure go for it."

So now you know. That's how I defend my position. By being right. Works every time. 
miller, you are still missing the point, and in a big way. The ground is a safety device, carrying current to ground (rather than the home-owner) in the case of dangerous malfunction or device failure. The ground has nothing whatsoever to do with the actual circuit. The neutral isn't, it's a conductor. It isn't used as a safety device.
 And as far as my "charming story", of course I realize what you, in your boundless arrogance, seem to think I could never have thought of. I understand completely that nothing plugged in at my house was ever grounded. Hadn't gotten that far yet, in the scheme of things. Everything else was, though. The metal box, which you wouldn't normally contact, and thru it, all the metal in every switch, outlet, light fixture, heater, etc, etc, all grounded.