How to remove ground pin on power cable

So you guys think its fair to nitpick me to death, then remove my post so people don’t get the explanation. Its okay for you to use my words, but not me. Someone, not all but some number of you, are the most despicable spineless weasely lowlifes imaginable. 

millercarbon

So you guys think its fair to nitpick me to death, then remove my post so people don’t get the explanation.

No one here has nitpicked - they've corrected your profound errors, that you then punctuate with proclamations such as:

That's how I defend my position. By being right. Works every time.

It seems to me that others here have been more respectful of you that you have of them.

Your post could only have been removed by moderators so if you're unhappy that it was deleted, your ire should be directed to them.

Adding  E F F E C T I V E  ground rods ain't just hammering in another piece of copper.

These links are worth reading.

Earth Ground Measurements
https://www.polyphaser.com/News/DownloadFile?downloadGuid=c68ebee3-baa1-470e-b61c-ac0bc2f97eba

Ground Impedance
https://www.polyphaser.com/News/DownloadFile?downloadGuid=3c633c3a-8c65-4585-8226-48edf2813252

Ground Rod Theory Installation
https://www.polyphaser.com/News/DownloadFile?downloadGuid=25400030-29fb-4981-862f-c24c4118b556

AC Surge Protection
https://www.polyphaser.com/News/DownloadFile?downloadGuid=c7d58ebd-2dfc-454b-bb08-4641bad5955b

The reason, as I recall, for neutral and ground being separated has to do with Ohms law.

Neutral is a working conductor in the sense that it SHOULD normally carry 100% of the current the hot does. So, 15-20 amps in a typical residential application.

Due to many factors, the impedance of neutral can become significantly non-zero.

15 A * 0 Ohms = 0V

15 A * 5 Ohm = 75 V

etc. etc.

So it is quite possible, if not probable that neutral can be non zero. Now imagine if that the ground wire no longer exists (as in old homes/appliances), but the chassis of your equipment is bonded to neutral (old washer/dryers). See the problem? You now have gear which can develop a significant shock factor by touching it. Happened to me with an
old dryer once. :)

The entire point of a safety ground in appliances is to have any voltage which accidentally touches the chassis to drain to ground and hopefully blow a fuse or breaker.

Of course, faults can happen in the ground conductor as well, but operationally, if the ground develops a high impedance, it’s not going to normally develop a voltage because current = 0.

This part is kind of important:

Because each panel can introduce a new impedance problem, the neutral and ground must remain unbonded except at the service panel. The service panel is the first one after the meter. So, if you add subpanels, you run 4 conductors. +120, -120, Neutral and Ground. One trick here is that the ground may form a loop. You don’t necessarily have to pull the ground from the panel....but that leaves open the possibility of a future contractor not knowing this, so don’t.

This concludes my Ted talk.