Speaker crossover mod. Your advice?


I'm considering modding the crossovers of my Focal 1027s. Specifically, I am thinking about replacing the capacitor associated with the tweeter. I have received some helpful advice from another A'gon member who has done a similar mod to his crossovers (on a different model speaker from the same manufacturer).

I would greatly appreciate any suggestions from folks who have experience with this sort of thing. In particular, what sort of improvements can be achieved with this kind of mod? Any thoughts on which caps to use? Any common mistakes I should avoid? Is the whole thing a bad idea?

Thanks for your input.

Bryon
bryoncunningham
I have created schematics for the crossover. It was tricky at first, but easy after I got the hang of it. Here they are:

TWEETER

MIDRANGE

WOOFERS

The following are the values of the caps and resistors for the various drivers, as labelled on the components:

TWEETER
C1 = 3.6J 250V
C2 = 6.8J 250V
R1 = 7W 5.6Ω JF

MIDRANGE
C3 = 56µF 63V
C4 = 12µF 63V
C5 = 4.7J 250V
R2 = 10W 6.8Ω JF
R3 = 10W 2.4Ω JF

WOOFERS
C6 = 220µF 63V
C7 = 440µF 63V
R4A = 10W 20Ω JF
R4B = 10W 20Ω JF
R4C = 10W 20Ω JF

What's next?

Bryon
Byron,

There is another thread on Audiogon which might be of interest to you, "Capacitor log Mundorf Silver in Oil." It's a long thread but it logs the journey of several members who ended up with Duelund Cast crossover components. Those are very expensive components and I am not recommending them for your project just simply because for your crossover the cost would be huge. However, that thread does contain a lot of their impressions of other components they tried along the way.

I was going to suggest Mundorf Supreme as a good capacitor, but upon reading the large values you have in your speaker, I'm not sure what to recommend.

I am doing another speaker project and plan to use Clarity MR caps, Duelund Cast resistors, and North Creek 10awg or 12awg inductors, but I don't have nearly as many components as you, nor such high values.

What are you planning to do with the inductors, and are you going outboard with your crossover?

John
One more comment though, after reading your cap values again it is the woofer values that are the really big ones. Maybe it would be okay to just replace the midrange and tweeter caps as it's the inductors that would play the more important role with the woofer. Others on this or the other thread should be able to provide you with a more solid recommendation however.
Thanks, John, for your advice. I will take a look at the Mundorf thread. I don't know the first thing about caps, so hopefully that will help.

I think the plan at this point is to replace the 2 caps for the tweeter, and possibly the resistor for the tweeter. I am going to leave the inductors alone.

As far as the midrange, I may do that down the line, if I am happy with the tweeter results. But for a first step, I am going to restrict myself to the tweeter. With that in mind, I have a basic, possibly stupid, question as I look around for replacement caps:

The caps for the tweeter are labelled "3.6J" and 6.8J." Does the "J" after the number mean joule? In my preliminary search, all the caps I am seeing are rated in µF. I don't see any caps labelled with "J". Why is that?

Bryon