Speaker crossover mod. Your advice?

More capacitor tests than you'd have thought possible.....
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html

conclusion? Try for yourself.

Eld is correct. L6 is a roadblock inductor.

Byron, the approximate voltage-rating minimum for x-over caps is about FIFTY. 250VDC caps are used by manufacturers because they're available. 100s and 200s will work perfectly.

One can always use higher-power-rated resistors to replace lower-rated ones.

In paralleling caps, one uses the SoniCap Gen.1 for most of the value and the RTX or Platinum as the 'filler'. The higher proportion of higher-quality cap, the better-overall the sound is. And remember, ending up within c. 5% of the rated values is JUST FINE.

You're making this project WAY too difficult. :-)
.

Thanks Jeffrey. Not trying to make things difficult. Trying not to make a mistake I will regret. To a pro, a rookie's caution may seem silly. But we are all rookies at one time or another.

Speaking of not making a mistake...

As Magfan pointed out, it's going to be difficult to mount the new caps to the crossover board, as they are MUCH bigger than the stock caps. Can anyone make a suggestion as to how the new caps can be secured to the board, which is mounted vertically inside the speaker cabinet. No, I can't go external.

BTW, I did discover that ClarityCaps MR will be available in March from Parts Connexion in the value I need - 3.6uF. I'm now leaning toward a combination of ClarityCap MR and Mundorf (not sure which one). Both have their proponents, so I may just split the difference.

Bryon

Bryon, why split a mediocre cap and high end cap instead of just using a single high end cap? The combination of bypasses mentioned above can add artificial artifacts and can also sound very detailed, not something I would want with a metal dome tweeter. Besides, a single cap in series will have better spacial information than unequal split values or bypasses. YMMV.

Face - Sorry, my last post wasn't that clear. The tweeter has 2 caps associated with it - C1 and C2 - that are 3.6uF and 6.8uF. What I was trying to say in my last post is that I'm currently leaning toward doing this:

1. Replacing the stock 3.6uF cap with a SINGLE 3.6uF ClarityCap MR.
2. Replacing the stock 6.8uF cap with a single 6.8uF Mundorf, (possibly silver/oil)

What do you think of that idea?

Bryon