I need advice on bi amping

There is nothing wrong with having a powerful system as long as you like it.  My 2 channel system is 350 watts per side.  The speakers are rated at 600 watts so I like power.  Volume is not my main concern, quality is.  My experience with bi-amping comes from my home theater rig. I used 2 channels of the 11.2 available to bi-amp the front left and right. The set up took the 140 watts per channel to 280 for 2 channels driven and less when all 11 are being used.  The B&W 803's sound great. I'm using 2 B&W DB4 subs from the preamp out connectors.  Also, I use a Furman Elite 20 pfi power conditioner which has up to 45 amps of peak reserves if needed on a 20 amp circuit.  The system sounds as though it is performing effortlessly at all times.  My advice is to go for the second amp and bi-amp your speakers.  Just be sure that you use the best wire you can buy whether your interconnects or speaker wires are short or long.  I've heard the arguments for short speaker wires but I've never had a room or amps where I could do that kind of set up.  Happy listening.

Looked up your system.  Long interconnects work best with XLR connections.

Clearthink, Long on superlatives, and insults, as usual conveying absolutely no information and bringing nothing to the conversation.

To the op, you can ignore "posts" like these from people just out to insult others. Speaker "power" specs are near meaningless. The recommended amplification for your speakers is "up to 250W". What does that mean? Not a whole lot. The majority of speaker "events", i.e. smoke, are from under-powered amplifiers drove into serious clipping, usually by someone using them in "party" mode, not actually listening to music, and to most it would be very obvious something is not "okay". In theory you can bottom out a speaker with a high powered amplifier but again, you are going to notice something is not "right".

Odds are for that speaker, the woofers are rated somewhere around 250W, the tweeters a whole lot less. No one ever drives, except when testing, 250W continuous into a speaker ....

clearthink1,150 posts04-28-2020 10:27am
heaudio123"Ignore the specs for power on the speakers."

That is extremely poor, misinformed, unconsidered advice ignoring power recommendations for speakers is the first step for failing to tune, optimize, and protect you’re speaker system.

heaudio123"Clearthink, Long on superlatives, and insults, as usual conveying absolutely no information and bringing nothing to the conversation."

Those who lack knowledge, understanding, and plain logic often result to personal attack, insult , and derision in an effort to appear thoughtful, authoritative, and expert so from those type of people I actually accept the "insult" as an actual compliment or praise. Thank you heaudio and best of luck to you in you're journey towards truth!

  I am running a pair of re-built Veritas 2.4s. Would bi-wiring them add an appreciable difference?

Seriously? No. Here's why.
First of all, in order to benefit from bi-amping you need an active crossover that is at least as good as the passive one in your speakers- or you lose a step right here. The speaker right now is connected directly to the amp. Adding a crossover adds connections. The interconnects you use need to be at least good enough to make up for this, or you lose another step. Also its an active crossover. It needs power. So add in a power cord or two. One for the crossover, one for the amp. You can skip these but then guess what? Lose a step.

The other supposed benefit of bi-amping is you can have a quality midrange/treble amp that doesn't need to be as powerful, and it will sound better because of being relieved of having to put out all that powerful low bass. That's the theory anyway. Which falls apart because it conveniently leaves out the fact the money spent on the crap bass amp and crossover and all the rest would have bought you an amp that sounds even better still and without having to buy all the other stuff.

What you might want to ask yourself is why if bi-amping is so good nobody actually does it? Why are all the shows chock full of systems that are not bi-amped? Why are hardly any audiophiles systems bi-amped? Why is millercarbons system not bi-amped??! Just look at the stuff that crazy guy does- he would for sure be doing this if it made any sense! 
https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/8367 

Right. He would. If it made any sense he would totally be all over it.

The specs recommend 250 watts and I am pushing them with 100 a side. 

A common enough misconception. 250 watts is nothing more than an indication of how much clean power a speaker can take without going up in smoke. It has nothing to do with how much power the speaker "needs". The plain fact of the matter is speakers do not "need" any power at all. It is you who needs power, to get from the speakers the volume you want. The less volume you want, the less power you need. You're not even using the power you have now. The last thing you need is more. 

Don't feel bad. The industry and even us audiophiles do a terrible job of explaining this stuff. The truth is you are not "pushing 100 watts" now. You may have an amp capable of putting out 100 watts. That's an entirely different thing. In reality, if you were to measure, odds are any given moment any normal volume you're using a handful of watts at most.

Now, if you want to do something that definitely will make a big improvement, add two more subs. DBA. Never fails.