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Comparing Powerline Ethernet to WiFi for streaming audio

Thought I would share my findings.
I have a ROON based music server system with Tidal and Qobuz streaming services. Using Small Green Computer’s SonicTransport i9 Optical as ROON Core, connected via optical cable to a Sonore Optical Rendu (powered by Sonore Linear Power Supply) acting as ROON endpoint. This then connects to Chord Blu Mk 2 via USB, which upsamples and connects to Chord DAVE DAC via dual BNC.
Until very recently, I was connecting my ROON Core to my cable modem/router using Google Mesh WiFi. I was and still is very happy with the sound quality. My audio system is too far from my cable modem to run an ethernet cable from cable modem/router to it. So, I relied on Google Mesh WiFi with a seperate pod situated close to the ROON Core and connected via ethernet. The Google Mesh pod itself had a linear power supply instead of the stock wall wart.
But I just tried a Powerline Ethernet adapter. This uses the home’s internal power cables to route ethernet from one room to another. I always thought that running digital data on power cables was going to be noisy. I bought a NetGear Powerline 1200 (1200Mbps speed). There are more expensive and newer powerline ethernet models available up to 2000Mbps speed. But these come with dual ethernet ports and pass through filtered power outlets. I though for dedicated audio purposes, better to keep it simple and minimize electronics.
Bottom line, I was blown away by the improvement in audio quality of the NetGear Powerline Ethernet connection over the Google Mesh WiFi connection. Mind you, I was very happy with the quality from the Google Mesh kit but the NetGear Powerline ethernet kit was clearly better.
The sound quality improvement was immediate and very evident. More space between instruments and notes. Smoother, more image depth and more air around the notes especially the trailing edges. So, no doubt, the Netgear Powerline 1200 was far superior to the Google Mesh WiFi. I then swapped the Netgear for a similar powerline ethernet product TP-Link AV600. This was recommended by Small Green Computer. The TP-Link is smaller and has 2 pin power prongs. The Netgear Powerlines has 3 pin power prongs, so it has a ground connection to the power outlet. I found the TP-Link to take a step backward in sound quality. The image depth decreased. Soundstage was flatter and there is less air and space between notes and instruments. The TP-Link Av600 was sounding a lot closer to the Google Mesh WiFi. Just my observations, FWIW.
ddriveman
arafiq's avatar
arafiq
1,599 posts
 
I have a silly question ... I am running an ethernet cable from my router to my Apple TV that is connected to my 2 channel stereo amplifier. Now I have my headphone rig on the other side of the same room where the Bluesound Node 2 is acting as the streamer, and I want to extend the cable to it (currently on wifi).

I have two options ...
1. Run an additional cable directly from the router to the Bluesound, or
2. Put a switch where the cable (going into Apple TV) ends. Basically, this becomes a Y-shaped three-way connection. One end goes into the switch from the router, then from the switch one cable goes to the Apple TV and another one goes further to the Bluesound.

Obviously, the second option is easier since i don’t have to run a very long cable all the way from the router to the Node. But I’m not sure what the impact will be on the sound quality. If it doesn’t matter either way, I’d prefer option 2. Any input is appreciated.
david_ten
5,480 posts
 
There's easy and there is best.

One of the easy options is to do what the OP did. I'm assuming your Node 2 is close to a power outlet?
arafiq's avatar
arafiq
1,599 posts
 
@david_ten  Thanks for your response. Yes, I understand that there is a third option i.e. powerline adapters. But since the router is in the same room, I am able to run a direct ethernet connection via CAT6 or 7. So the question is whether to run two separate cables from the router, or daisy chain the second cable from the first one.
david_ten
5,480 posts
 
@arafiq If it were me, I would run it via a good quality (generic) cable from the router and use a LAN isolator followed by a short run of a basic audiophile LAN cable (for example Supra CAT8) from the isolator to the Node 2.

Here is an example of one LAN isolator:

https://www.emosystems.com/product/en-70hd-ultra-compact-network-isolator/

There are less expensive options, as well.

[Note and correction: I should have used "better" in my previous post and NOT best]
hgeifman
2,113 posts
 
@arafiq, My configuration is very similar to yours since I selected your option #2. My Family Room LG OLED TV is connected to my LUXUL Router using an Ethernet cable running under my house in the crawlspace. When I added my Aurender Music Server to my living room, we ran an Ethernet cable (under the house) from the Aurender, in my living room, to a LUXUL XGS-1008 switch sitting next to the TV in my family room.

This means BOTH the TV and my Aurender Music Server are connected to the LUXUL switch that is connected to my router. As I stated before, a power-line adapter works if an Ethernet connection is impossible. In my case, running an Ethernet cable from the Aurender to the shared LUXUL switch box works perfectly and easily solved my problem. I stream music from Qobuz with no problems and it sounds great.

Please ALSO note that at the beginning I had issues with my LINKSYS and Apple Routers. The streaming music was distorted, the signal was dropping out and I had other streaming issues. I finally purchased the LUXUL Dual-Band AC-3100 Gigabit Router and it works great. I checked the router monthly for software updates and also re-boot it at the same time. When streaming from Tidal, Qobuz, etc. every component in the chain needs to be working perfectly. This includes the ISP (Internet Service Provider), cable modem, router, switch boxes, music streamers, cables and everything else.

If needed, ask your ISP to confirm your cable signal is running in the correct frequency range. My ISP needed to adjust my cable signal to be in the correct frequency range.


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