Fidelity Research FR-7 Repair


I have a FR-7 cartridge that got wacked in a move and looks bent. I was looking to send it in for repair. I see Soundsmith and cartridge_retipping-5 on ebay. I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations on this. 

I thought about buying a replacement (FR-7 or FR-7f) on ebay but considering the age of these cartridges thought I might be opening myself up to being in the same position I am now. Figured repair would be cheaper. 

I'm using on an FR-64 tonearm and a Brooks Berdan modded Oracle turntable with a Cotter SUT. In the time this has been down I've tried other cartridges but nothing has the magic of the FR cartridge.  Thanks in advance for any insights.
letch
If you decided to pass on Dr.Feickert protractor you can at least buy Technics Overhang Gauge to make a mark on the side and use it as a template for stylus position. But you have to make sure the length of the cantilever from SS is the same as the original.

You can also buy yourself a Hi-Fi News TEST LP and you will find protractor inside.
"The protractor'', ''an protractor'''or ''whatever protractor''?
The tonearms lengths are 9'', 10'' and 12''. They ''assume''
different effective length. Aka the stylus distance to the pivot.
Letch owns 10'' tonearm (FR-64) while eff. length is 245 mm
for Stevenson and 246 mm for Bearwald. If his FR-7 got the
cantilever with the same length as the original this length can
be used for whatever other carts and headshells. Assuming the
headshell has slots allowing movement of stylus in both
directions. My guess for the cost of an plastic caliper is $10.
@nandric technics overhang gauge cost $7 , look here
Alternative mark for the stylus position (overhang) on the side and you’re done with that. At lest this gauge hold the headshell like a tonearm, look here. I tried it with y FR-7fz and it's fine, the stylus is a few mm behind the mark on the gauge. 

Sorry chak, I see an rubber ring behind the headshell connector
while the higth of this ,uh, cheap instrument, does not allow
lowering of the stylus to the marked position. One need to guess
where the stylus point should be. Together they make at least
2 mm error. So there is then no sense to speak about different
geometries.  But if one use (plastic) caliper with one ''leg'' after
the connector (without rubber ring) and the other on the stylus
point one will get exact effective lenght  and use the obtained
lenght for all other  cart/headshell combos. I adjusted this way
20 of my MC carts in their (separate) headshells . Checking with
my Mint tractor made for my SP10 /FR-64 S (Bearwald) confirmed
the results. Changing carts can then be done in 5 minutes time.
I don't use any rubber rings and the pictures provided above are from the internet to display a $7 the plastic overhang gauge to the OP.