2. amps-preamps
  3. 157750-146077

Advice/Warnings for a newbie

Hi

I've had way too much free time and gone down a few rabbit holes purchasing some older gear, some of which I've got a little experience with and some none... but was curious, because I am not the best technically, if any of the more seasoned audiophiles might have any advice regarding my chain. I'm replacing my 30w Pioneer receiver with separates (put all my specs in the below list) – I got the preamp as a family hand-me-down and I've just bought the monoblocks (having service done now) so I've not heard it all together yet. The player and speakers I've been using forever. But will I OK in terms of matching impedances, gain, etc? Oh, and I'm installing a dedicated line for the monoblocks and was looking at a Niagara 1200 as power conditioner for the rest.... any tips greatly appreciated!


Technics SL1200M3D
Tonearm: Jelco 750D
External PSU: Paul Hynes SR4
+
Cart: Nagaoka MP150
Type: Moving Iron
Output voltage: 1kHz, 5cm/sec:4.5mV
Frequency range: 20-20kHz
Material: diamond, nude
Stylus type: elliptical 0.4 x 0.7 mil
Tracking force range: 1.5–2g
Tracking force, recommended: 1.8g
Recommended load capacitance: 150-200pF

>>

Phono Stage: RCM Sensor 2 
Input: RCA – Balanced and Unbalanced (selectable via switch)
Output: Balanced XLR / Unbalanced (single ended)
Input sensitivity: 0.3–5mV (selectable in 7 steps)
Gain: 52–76dB (2 VRMS output at 1 kHz)
Input impedance: 20–47kΩ (selectable in 8 steps)
Input capacitance: 150 pF
THD: 0,01% (1kHz)
RIAA linearity: +/-0,3dB (20Hz–20kHz)
Nominal output: 2V rms
Max. output level: 8V rms
Output impedance: 70 ohm
S/N: 85dB (lowest gain settings)
RIAA linearity: +/- 0,3dB (20Hz–20kHz)

>>

Cello Palette Preamplifier
Maximum output: 8V RMS (single-ended), 16V RMS (balanced)
Line Gain (Switchable): 0dB, 6dB, 9dB, 12dB, 18dB
THD (ref. 6V): 0.084%
Input impedance (Unbalanced): 1MΩ
Output Impedance: 150Ω

Running Balanced into >>

Pass Labs Aleph 2 (Monoblocks)
Topology: Class A, single-ended
Power Output: 100W into 8Ω / 200W into 4Ω
Maximum Output: 10A, 40V (Peak)
Gain (Balanced): 20dB
Gain (Unbalanced): 20dB
Gain (Unbalanced, XLR Jumpered): 26dB
Distortion (100W, 8Ω, 20Hz-20kHz): 0.5%
Input Impedance (Balanced): 25kΩ
Input Impedance (Unbalanced): 10kΩ
Output Impedance: 0.1Ω
Damping Factor: 100
Common Mode Rejection: 60dB
Power Consumption: 300w
Output Noise: 600μV
DC Offset: <100mV

>>

A/D/S L1290 Loudspeakers
Frequency responce: 40hz–27khz,
Impedance: 8Ω nominal
Efficiency: 90dB SPL from 2.8 VRMS (1W)
Crossovers: 500hz and 5khz, 12dB/Octave slopes

au_lait
minorl
1,016 posts
 
hook the system up first as-is and take some serious time to listen and enjoy.  Then start listening for anything you feel may be missing or off, if that exist at all.  I don't think it will be much.

Then, and only then, start playing around with the tweak/upgrade path if you feel it's necessary. 

Don't upgrade/tweak willie-nillie.  If, after some time and experience, you feel you aren't quite "there" yet, then start with the tweaks/upgrades.

Very nice system.

enjoy
cd318
2,636 posts
 
au_lait,

It would be interesting to hear your impressions. It may not be the system of today, but there's little obviously wrong with the turntable/arm/cart or the speakers. 90db is a walk in the park for almost any amp.

Of all the cartridges I used (about 6/7 in total - mainly budget designs and a few Linn's), the Nagoaka MP 11 boron as it was then was my favourite. Just a solid no nonsense design. Loved the square shape for alignment purposes and it sounded so well balanced. 

I'd also suggest be very wary of any power cord / conditioner rabbit holes. 
millercarbon's avatar
millercarbon
12,531 posts
 
Logic 101, pop quiz, (courtesy of roberjerman):

1. All components come with free power cords included. Free.

2. Don't waste money on power cords! From my long experience they have nada, zilch, zero effect on sound quality

3. Regarding ICs and speaker wire: the least-costly offerings from Kimber are again sane and cost-effective choices

True or false: It is cost-effective to pay money for something that has nada, zilch, zero effect on sound quality.
mike_in_nc
1,157 posts
 
That Cello Palette Preamp is a choice piece of gear -- as you probably know. I owned one for about 10 years, and I’d consider it one of the top preamps ever made. I’ve never got anything like that as a hand-me-down. Give thanks!

Most Cello preamps use Fischer connectors for their balanced outputs, which means special interconnects are needed. If you plan to run balanced and didn’t receive compatible cables with the unit, you can buy the connectors from Fischer in Switzerland and have Blue Jeans or another vendor make up cables for you. I generally buy balanced cables from a pro audio shop that will make them with Mogami W2549 cabling. There are many good ones.

It’s a lovely system. I agree in this case with @millercarbon, that power cords are not worth the cost. I have found line conditioning can help, but as @minorl said, the best bet is to hook up the system and get it optimized before tweaking. Then, you could TRY a power conditioner at home. Results are quite system dependent, so I advise against buying anything you can’t return, no matter what a good bargain it seems to be, nor how great the reviews or recommendations. Manufacturers have their fanboys, and that’s fine, but YOU, not THEY, will be listening to your system.
mrdecibel
3,065 posts
 
mike_in_nc....I think you misunderstood millercarbon. He does believe in upgraded power cords, and does believe, in isolating them, mechanically, and electrically. Look at his system photos. Sometimes I misunderstand his posts, but he believes EVERYTHING matters, and makes a difference, and I agree, especially, if it is audible, and for the better. A fortune does not need to be spent on power cords, ICs, or speaker cables, but, again, worth an upgrade. To the OP : Take advantage of a trial period many manufacturers offer, once the system is set up and everything has settled in.
More to discover