2. amps-preamps
  3. 157750-146077

Advice/Warnings for a newbie

Hi

I've had way too much free time and gone down a few rabbit holes purchasing some older gear, some of which I've got a little experience with and some none... but was curious, because I am not the best technically, if any of the more seasoned audiophiles might have any advice regarding my chain. I'm replacing my 30w Pioneer receiver with separates (put all my specs in the below list) – I got the preamp as a family hand-me-down and I've just bought the monoblocks (having service done now) so I've not heard it all together yet. The player and speakers I've been using forever. But will I OK in terms of matching impedances, gain, etc? Oh, and I'm installing a dedicated line for the monoblocks and was looking at a Niagara 1200 as power conditioner for the rest.... any tips greatly appreciated!


Technics SL1200M3D
Tonearm: Jelco 750D
External PSU: Paul Hynes SR4
+
Cart: Nagaoka MP150
Type: Moving Iron
Output voltage: 1kHz, 5cm/sec:4.5mV
Frequency range: 20-20kHz
Material: diamond, nude
Stylus type: elliptical 0.4 x 0.7 mil
Tracking force range: 1.5–2g
Tracking force, recommended: 1.8g
Recommended load capacitance: 150-200pF

>>

Phono Stage: RCM Sensor 2 
Input: RCA – Balanced and Unbalanced (selectable via switch)
Output: Balanced XLR / Unbalanced (single ended)
Input sensitivity: 0.3–5mV (selectable in 7 steps)
Gain: 52–76dB (2 VRMS output at 1 kHz)
Input impedance: 20–47kΩ (selectable in 8 steps)
Input capacitance: 150 pF
THD: 0,01% (1kHz)
RIAA linearity: +/-0,3dB (20Hz–20kHz)
Nominal output: 2V rms
Max. output level: 8V rms
Output impedance: 70 ohm
S/N: 85dB (lowest gain settings)
RIAA linearity: +/- 0,3dB (20Hz–20kHz)

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Cello Palette Preamplifier
Maximum output: 8V RMS (single-ended), 16V RMS (balanced)
Line Gain (Switchable): 0dB, 6dB, 9dB, 12dB, 18dB
THD (ref. 6V): 0.084%
Input impedance (Unbalanced): 1MΩ
Output Impedance: 150Ω

Running Balanced into >>

Pass Labs Aleph 2 (Monoblocks)
Topology: Class A, single-ended
Power Output: 100W into 8Ω / 200W into 4Ω
Maximum Output: 10A, 40V (Peak)
Gain (Balanced): 20dB
Gain (Unbalanced): 20dB
Gain (Unbalanced, XLR Jumpered): 26dB
Distortion (100W, 8Ω, 20Hz-20kHz): 0.5%
Input Impedance (Balanced): 25kΩ
Input Impedance (Unbalanced): 10kΩ
Output Impedance: 0.1Ω
Damping Factor: 100
Common Mode Rejection: 60dB
Power Consumption: 300w
Output Noise: 600μV
DC Offset: <100mV

>>

A/D/S L1290 Loudspeakers
Frequency responce: 40hz–27khz,
Impedance: 8Ω nominal
Efficiency: 90dB SPL from 2.8 VRMS (1W)
Crossovers: 500hz and 5khz, 12dB/Octave slopes

au_lait
whatsthatbuzz
7 posts
 
I picked up a pair of L1290s this year for my living room system and have been loving them. Extra power improves them greatly. I initially had the run with a Dynaco ST70, but it was far to boomy. Then I bought an ATI 1506...

At first, because why not, I was running 2 of the 3 separate amps in the 1506 bridged, which is 450 watts per channel at 8 ohms. The L1290s are 4 ohm speakers so I’ll guess that was something like 900 watts per channel! The sound was like being at a live concert with a really nice system. The power emanating from the speakers was thrilling. I guess I like that type of distortion, but I kept blowing fuses in the speakers. Go figure.

So I switched off the bridge on the ATI 1506 and ran the L1290s at a mere 325 watts per channel for 4 ohm speakers. The speakers say 250 watts max so I thought I’d still hear some of that thrilling distortion but it was gone. What was heard just clean sound. I can’t complain but it is very different from overdriven. What this did let me do was add a sub. From one DJ to another, let me confirm that you definitely want the sub. I want a second one and now that the 1506 isn’t bridged for the L1290s I have an extra 2 channels to bridge, but then I think I need that dedicated circuit too. 
arcticdeth's avatar
arcticdeth
1,572 posts
 
From your list, you have amazing gear, you don’t need help!
enjoy what you have!

 Good stuff
axpert's avatar
axpert
124 posts
 
Especially if you reside in a major urban power grid, there is no question as to the poor quality of the A.C. cumming into your residence. All manner of noise elements riding the AC "wave". Unless you have very expensive and sophisticated equipment that contain power supply circuitry capable of filtering out all, or at least the majority of these said elements, any set of audio electronics will benefit sonically from the use and incorporation of power management devices; ie. Scientifically designed power cords and connectors, and if you can afford it, a noise filtering power plant. There are several good ones on the market. Some that even completely regenerate the sine wave feeding your audio electronics. Simple truth. The purer and unaltered the characteristics of the AC waveform, the better your audio reproduction will sound. 
Unfortunately, there are many products available on the market that claim that their design will filter and significantly reduce noise elements "riding" the AC power to your home. Some work, and some are just a scam. Same thing applies to "power plants". They all claim to be the the "end all" of your power issues, but only a few really do a superior job of what they claim. Again, like many pieces of audio equipment, it's pretty much of a "crap shoot", unless you are fortunate enough to have some place to actually obtain a honest demo. That doesn't mean that anyone interested in improving the sonic performance of their system, shouldn't try to make some educated choices to improve the quality of their A.C.
au_lait OP
348 posts
 
I live Los Angeles. Power grid from hell. My experience with conditioners is limited to the rackmount Furmans I used to use in all my live situations, but this was in the 90s, I have however read loads in the last month of quarantine about the offerings new from Shunyata, AudioQuest, Equitech, IsoTek, PS, etc etc etc... but also considered just installing the new line from the power box with some of those Furutech wall sockets and starting there, seeing how much noise I can reduce. I can do the electrical myself and me out the door for a couple hundred.
grey9hound
1,112 posts
 

roberjerman cannot hear these differences, so he makes claims, these differences do no exist. They do exist, just listen for yourself, and with the system you put together, it will not be hard to hear.


Obviously roberjerkman's system or equipment is not good enough to hear differences, or he has not learned how to listen for differences.For years i was in the same situation, It was my equipment.
I promise you there are differences in the sound of cables . It may not always be easily discernible and obvious. You also have to learn how to listen for differences. Your brain cannot always listen to or pick up all differences  at the same time ...like soundstage depth, height, imaging ...
Then you have dynamics , Attack, Decay, Sustain and Release.   Then you have to listen at all the different freq Ranges.Some cables present a more laid back presentation... Some are more of a front row , up close  presentation . Some have extra energy in the upper mids. or some in the mid bass. some have a much more prominent Bass  Some are more detailed..etc..etc.etc.
It does take some education or experience  as to what to listen for. 
this can help
http://djfrobot.blogspot.com/2010/04/eq-frequency-chart-for-instruments.html



 
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