Recommendations for electronic crossover.


I am bi-amping my B&W 804 matrix speakers with a 50 watt per channel tube amp for the top and a 200 watt SS for the woofer. Any suggestions for reasonable priced crossover? I have been told Merchand (?) makes a good one.

Thanks!
jpahere
@georgehifi wrote: "... bridging amps makes what could be a good amp, lean towards becoming a PA amp." 

This has been my experience as well, with some pretty nice amps (Accuphase). The difference was immediately obvious. 

Duke
@georgehifi --

Each and every one of us preferred the sound of the bridged configuration, with some describing the sound as now being "more hifi"
This statement says it all.
A really good amp should sound big, tight and wash over you with dynamics and detail that don't sound like it's coming from any of the the speakers drivers, and have a sound stage you feel you can get up and walk into.

It says what? The people in attendance of said listening session, among them musicians, knows how to use the term "hifi" in its truer sense, and nothing about the statement excludes the traits you mention, on the contrary. A smoother, more refined top end could point to better transient response (i.e.: better slew rate), and a more lively and open sound is exactly that and could involve many other parameters; like more headroom, less restricted dynamic capabilities, better sound stage, etc. The traits in particular you do mention are very much a factor of the speakers as well, I should add, so it seems me you're bending the statement to have it suit your agenda. 
In general Bridged Amps
Pros=
More watts.

Cons=
Worse damping factor
Higher output impedance (has relevance to damping factor)
Lower stability (especially into low impedance's)
Current ability is reduced (especially into low impedance's)
Higher distortion.

   
georgehifi
In general Bridged Amps
Pros= More watts.

Cons=
Worse damping factor
Higher output impedance (has relevance to damping factor)
Lower stability (especially into low impedance’s)
Current ability is reduced (especially into low impedance’s)
Higher distortion.
Yup, that’s my experience as well.I could never understand the appeal of bridged amps. If you need more power, I think the best thing to do is just buy a bigger amp. Bridging an amp is more of a "parlor trick" than a solution to anything.

Of course there are always exceptions and everyone is welcome to their personal preference .
@georgehifi --

In general Bridged Amps
Pros=
More watts.

Cons=
Worse damping factor
Higher output impedance (has relevance to damping factor)
Lower stability (especially into low impedance’s)
Current ability is reduced (especially into low impedance’s)
Higher distortion.

Some redundant info here, all of which is mentioned ad nauseam without either getting into specifics with regard to perceived impressions, nor putting the cons-info into perspective; what’s the relevance of claimed negative aspects for them to actually matter in-use, and would actual listening to bridged configurations ever be freed/independent from a preconceived, theory-laden approach?

This is my main contention with "hifi:" what’s headroom is generally looked down at as being "overkill," and further relegated to the arena of PA as something more crude and less refined. In this case I can only say my impressions of listening to bridged amp constellations, cons be damned, have been positive - indeed favorable compared to their non-bridged state. The overall impression is, by and large, that of a more effortless, (a)live, open and refined presentation - qualities I for the life of me can only associate with what is intrinsically better. If the matter was solely about comparing impressions and others disagreed with me, I’d rest my case respecting the other party’s opinion. What gets to me is the "look at the spec’d cons, man - they speak for themselves"-gist, added to the conjecture that more watts are essentially about catering to the PA-segment.

The only real negative of actual importance in my case would be that residual noise in bridged mode is amplified, and that matters with an active configuration of a 110dB sensitivity horn/driver combination. A lower gain setting would be necessitated here, but as is I’m perfectly happy with a 30 watts pure class A amplifier for this frequency region. What I would consider is buying a second Crown K2 for bridged mode with my horn subs (8 ohms) and/or EV bass section, but only because it would make what’s already very good even better - at any SPL.