I finally get it!


I had a long  discourse with VPI after I bought my new Classic 3 Sig SE years ago. The subject was that the S2P distance was off. After over one year of trying to get this resolved, I still received my tt back with this distance 1 mm (long).

I always wondered why there was no forthcoming measurement of the S2P distance. After all, VPI is know to have customers DIY their own tts, based on VPI's own products.

So, VPI offers their set-up jig with new tts. They don't offer any specific measurements for S2P. Someone had to ask on their forums in order to find out. Why?

I now know why. Because, their manufacturing was/is not very precise. So, if their S2P distance was off when the tt left their shop, their own jig (provided) would still keep the S2P distance in a (good enough) range. 

Nice try/trick.
128x128slaw
oldears has got it right. A 1 mm difference in pivot point can easily be accounted for by any protractor with the exception of the expensive "arc" ones that are adjusted to the theoretical distance rather than the actual distance.

Theoretics aside, I have always believed that the adjustments for horizontal tracing angles (for which there is no universally accepted standard--there are many and all are compromises) are obsessed over.  Not to mention the hundreds of dollars spent on protractors that give the same result as a $20 one.  Proof of this, I suggest, is found in the success of the Viv Lab Rigid Tonearm, a short arm with no offest.  Said to sound great.  Tube units measure worse and sound better.  Same with LPs and digital, same with belt drive over most DD.  The only test is your ears.

More important cartridge adjustments IMO are SRA (depending upon stylus shape) and especially azimuth.
Right. I wish more would realize this. Not as much for their own sake. Anyone wants to spend more money on protractors than stuff that actually makes music, and more time obsessing and fussing over microns when the dang thing ain't within millimeters most of the time anyway, that's all fine with me. To each their own. 

But unfortunately new people come along and see this and conclude playing records means having to do all this crap. Happens all the time. Then they either sit there looking at the ten grand rig waiting to pay some dude to come set it up, or decide its just not worth the hassle. Which is a shame. Because its not a hassle. Its easy. But who is gonna believe that when the guys who want to make everything just as hard as it can possibly be are sucking up all the oxygen in the room?
A arc protractor is free.
As downloaded SW and you put in your specific TT S2P distance.
And you chose what mathematical equation that you want (Löfgren A/B, Bergwall or ..)
Print it out, check distance of the printed result to ensure it is in scale.
Done.

As for azimuth I were one of them that obsessed to get my setup as good as possible. After reading people setting up with special test/calibration records. And with special equipment (fozgometer) or computer software. I also used digital oscilloscope and so on.
Read people that had many different pressings of Denon calibration records + other brands of calibration records. And they come to the conclusion that every single calibration record measure slightly different... And remember supposedly when making a calibration record they hopefully make all the angels setup on the cutting lathe as good as possible.. and we end up with variance anyway..

So should we set up perfectly against one calibration record? What is then the result.. .. that we only have a perfect setup on THAT record that mimics just that particular angle that the cutting head had when it cut just precisely THAT laquer..

So the lesson was azimuth vary from album to album. And if we suppose that the cartridge manufacturer has done as good job that they can do. Then it is just to put your cartridge for azimuth as horizontal as possible. And in a average between albums it will be the best.
(If it is not damage/faulty in any way)
You can always widen the hole a little so you can move the arm in the right direction then tighten it down.