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Duelund conversion to DIY Helix Geometry Cabling

I have been an avid user of the Duelund cabling for over two years now and have used them exclusively in my system with great results. I have built many for friends and have used a full loom of interconnects, speaker cables, power cords and an extensive wiring modification for a previously owned balanced power conditioner utilizing Duelund 600V PolyCast wiring which was transformative. My cabling desires can be a little addictive as I have owned and evaluated 40+ brands of cabling costing more than an entire stereo system!

Over the past six months I stumbled upon a thread here on Audiogon in regards to a Helix designed cabling and as you probably already know, I just had to look a little deeper into this cable design…After a month of studying and sourcing parts, I decided to reach out to the designer/architect, Williewonka who gave more insights and philosophy on how the cable came into existence.

That conversation got the ball rolling in converting one of my KLE Duelund interconnects to Steve’s Helix designed which only entailed replacing the neutral with a Mil-Spec 16 AWG silver-plated copper wire with the neural wire being 3 times longer than the signal wire and of course the “Coiling” of the neutral wire : )

After the modification was complete, I was not sure what to expect from the Helix cabling but I was quite shocked with the results with “ZERO” burn-in time…The sound stage became much wider/deeper with a much tighter/focused image and clarity/transparency is like nothing I have ever heard in any cabling regardless of cost. In fact, I just sold a full loom of a commercially designed Helix Cable that’s renowned around the world and has more direct sale than any cable manufacturer; these $200 DIY Helix Cables walked all over them…

I believe you will hear the same results as I have and have heard back from friends who have already modified their Duelunds with the same results; WOW! Remember the cables will need 200+ hours to burn-in and settle into your system. My system is now 90% DIY Helix to include IC, SC, PC and Coax with each cabling adding its beauty of an organic and natural presentation that draws you into the fabric of the music.

You can tailor the sound of your cables using Duelund, Mundorf silver/1% gold, the outstanding Vh Audio OCC Solid Copper or Silver with Airlok Insulation or your favorite wiring and you can change it at any time…

 

http://www.image99.net/blog/files/category-diy-cables.html

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/difference-in-sound-between-copper-and-silver-digital-cables

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/adding-shielding-to-existing-cables

 

Enjoy,

Wig


128x128wig
dbass
29 posts
 
@wig Thx! for your comparisons
@williewonka Again Thx! for your feedback on these options.

I built the Helix Interconnects with the Mundorf 1mm Silver Gold wire.  I deviated in 1 way from the recipe and used Cardas 1/4 Lb. Ultra pure tin/lead/Silver/copper Quad Eutectic instead of the WBT 4% silver solder.  Am I losing sonics by not using the WBT solder?
williewonka
3,075 posts
 
@dbass - the solder you have chosen is very good, so it will provide great performance sonically.

The main reason I specified WBT 4% silver on my web site was to get the point across that a "quality solder" should be used..

When I first started using the KLE Innovations RCA plugs I did notice a sonic improvement when I switched from the solder I purchased from the local hardware store, to the WBT.

I now use a  Eutectic solder instead of WBT and have not noticed any degradation in sound quality and the joints are very reliable

Because of the rapid state change from liquid to solid, the  Eutectic solders make a better joint both electrically and mechanically
- By comparison, the WBT solder does not transform as quickly and can result in a poor joint if your hand is a little shaky, like mine

Regards - Steve
gregm
3,405 posts
 
@williewonka thank you for sharing your experiments and @wig as well for your findings.
I am ready to build a 1.3m long Helix interconnect and think I'll go for the Mundorf variation.
A quick question:
-- the signal wire is 1mm (18g) silver;
-> what do you recommend for the neutral / return wire?
Regards


roberttdid
534 posts
 
Would it be wrong to point out that you have pretty much built an inductor?  This geometry will not reduce magnetic interference by the way, it would probably make it worse. This is how spark plug wires are wound in order to create high inductance in order to reduce transmission of high frequencies in the wire itself.


If this provides you more listening enjoyment, then absolutely you should do it, but you should also be cognizant of what you are creating.


w.r.t. a power cord, contrary to what many believe, inductance in a power cord is probably better in many cases. Those high "peaks" they carry high frequencies that the power supply is not great at filtering. Amplifiers usually have inductive filters on the AC to soften those peaks.
williewonka
3,075 posts
 
@gregm - I use the 16 gauge Mil-spec as listed on my web site with the Mundorf wire and it works extremely well.

If oyu use any thicker gauge then it would be difficult to attach the RCA housing because the finished cable is too thick.

Regards - Steve
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