Replacing driver screws with brass screws


There was some discussion about this on Millercarbon's thread about the Moab speakers, and I wanted to pursue the subject further without interfering with his thread.
As I stated there, I have heard about this practice for quite a few years, but never tried it because it seemed like one of those lunatic fringe ideas; and even though I actually really enjoy trying tweaks, and have found many of them effective, I just was not prepared for what this one did for the music coming out of my speakers. 
Specifically, it improved the detail in ambient trails, focus in general, complex harmonics in voices and stringed instruments, and instrumental separation. It is not subtle, and it is immediately noticeable.
So, I am curious to know how many of you out there have tried this, and what your experience has been.
Thanks, John  
128x128roxy54
Post removed 
Ok let’s look at it from the Old mechanics point of view. There are different types of brass. Some brass is slippery. :-)
The material is used as a normal wear part, it is used a LOT, in harsh environments. It has a different dampening effect depending where and how it’s used.
Brass securements with "double binding" washers won’t back out, IF they are torqued correctly...

When things are tight, they do not vibrate. IF thing are NOT tight they will BREAK!!! Ok you can add all the HOOP la you want..

IF IT’S tight, it won’t vibrate, if it’s loose it will...

The speaker rim (for the lack of a better name) needs to be
Secured correctly, with the correct binding head and locks
FLAT, not warped, torqued, in sequence and correctly.
SEALED, it CANNOT leak. AT ALL!
I’ve used Brass, Bronze. Copper, Stainless, Sheetrock screws (high carbon I reckon) internal HEX, Torex, la-te-da.

I use what looks nice, and I can torque to correct specs, easy Dudes and Dudettes!!

If it’s tight, and sealed, it’s dampened, and right...

What does that mean to me. ANSWER. The screws should NOT make a difference, if they are TIGHT.
LOOSE YES, Not torqued correctly, YES. Not torqued in correct sequence, YES.

Easy check, get a stethoscope, scope every screw UNTIL it has the same tone.. Just like tone tuning a spoke, wheel.

I bet YOU can hear better than you think, with a good tube scope, or a heart scope will work (10-20 USD) I use them all the time. STILL

LISTEN. You’ll see, or HEAR. :-)

Regards
OP if it's the same density, sending a controlled tone you can hear the difference. This is just in stereo.. You can use just a tube and put it to your ear over the securements. Hit the tone, and listen... Tighten for a higher pitch...., Try not to back off.

Torque to TONE.... Old Ways...

Regards