Replacing driver screws with brass screws


There was some discussion about this on Millercarbon's thread about the Moab speakers, and I wanted to pursue the subject further without interfering with his thread.
As I stated there, I have heard about this practice for quite a few years, but never tried it because it seemed like one of those lunatic fringe ideas; and even though I actually really enjoy trying tweaks, and have found many of them effective, I just was not prepared for what this one did for the music coming out of my speakers. 
Specifically, it improved the detail in ambient trails, focus in general, complex harmonics in voices and stringed instruments, and instrumental separation. It is not subtle, and it is immediately noticeable.
So, I am curious to know how many of you out there have tried this, and what your experience has been.
Thanks, John  
128x128roxy54
There is a loudspeaker manufacturer who did trial brass screws, and used them for some time, until he could find someone who could manufacture him some copper ones.
Now, I do not know the purity of the copper screws, nor the exact composition of the brass. The brass screws did make a difference to the sound, and that difference was sufficient that the less expensive steel screws were dropped and the more expensive brass were introduced into the builds.

[I have myself had copper machined and cut for projects, waterjet and cnc routed. I acknowledge that small amounts of another metal turning the copper into an alloy, makes it more readily machinable]

The correct torque settings were discovered, and I haven't confirmed how that was arrived at, however I do believe it was many hours of R&D.

At the factory, a torque setter is used, and the screws have an Allen head on them. They are also secured in place with Loctite on the threads.

The old brass screws are still being used, however they are used in the tuning bay on the back of the speakers, simply as a conductor. The screws pass through the board the crossover is built upon, into an open bay in the back of the speaker. The tuning bay is used after some run in time on the speakers, whereby placing a resistor (and sometimes a capacaitor) in parallel with resistors in the crossover circuit to lower resistance, and do a final tune using Clio measurement system to dial in the final crossover measurements to very close tolerances. Having a closely matched pair makes for a very good soundstage.

Also a newer shaped baffle made of copper (an alloy of copper) did yield an audible increase in fidelity, on speakers with decoupled exotic tweeters.
This was used in conjunction with a 2" thick acoustic foam covered baffle.
Hi Ricki,
Can I assume that you're speaking about Lenehan? You mentioned them the other day and a light went on. I remember well when his first tiny, perfectionist monitor came out. It was beautiful and I actually considered buying a pair. I went back to the site for the first time in forever the other day to see that he now has two larger models. They must be really something to hear! They're beautiful too.
There is a man who really attends to all of the details! 
"...with platinum-plated 24k gold.  That'll really float your boat."

I thought it would sink.
I actually want to try this because my speakers probably need some attention with tightening the screws down after the years of use. 
I actually think the brass screws would look very nice. 

So given that where can I buy allen head wood screws?