Replacing driver screws with brass screws

Hello,
How about this test. As long as it does not void your warranty replace the screws on one speaker. We all know when something is different with our system. If it sounds the same then it did not help your system. If it sounds off then there is a possibility it could sound better. Replace the screws on the second speakers and give it a listen for a few days. Make sure the screws are the exact same thread, length, diameter, and head size. 
It is really amazing how heated this discussion got. I wonder if this happened when the first person changed out their power cable to something different? Maybe even more basic when Mr Lee of Monster decided to upgrade speaker wires. Is anyone using lamp cord anymore?

You haven't really lived as an audiophile until you've replaced all your loose screws with platinum-plated 24k gold.  That'll really float your boat.

There is a loudspeaker manufacturer who did trial brass screws, and used them for some time, until he could find someone who could manufacture him some copper ones.
Now, I do not know the purity of the copper screws, nor the exact composition of the brass. The brass screws did make a difference to the sound, and that difference was sufficient that the less expensive steel screws were dropped and the more expensive brass were introduced into the builds.

[I have myself had copper machined and cut for projects, waterjet and cnc routed. I acknowledge that small amounts of another metal turning the copper into an alloy, makes it more readily machinable]

The correct torque settings were discovered, and I haven't confirmed how that was arrived at, however I do believe it was many hours of R&D.

At the factory, a torque setter is used, and the screws have an Allen head on them. They are also secured in place with Loctite on the threads.

The old brass screws are still being used, however they are used in the tuning bay on the back of the speakers, simply as a conductor. The screws pass through the board the crossover is built upon, into an open bay in the back of the speaker. The tuning bay is used after some run in time on the speakers, whereby placing a resistor (and sometimes a capacaitor) in parallel with resistors in the crossover circuit to lower resistance, and do a final tune using Clio measurement system to dial in the final crossover measurements to very close tolerances. Having a closely matched pair makes for a very good soundstage.

Also a newer shaped baffle made of copper (an alloy of copper) did yield an audible increase in fidelity, on speakers with decoupled exotic tweeters.
This was used in conjunction with a 2" thick acoustic foam covered baffle.

Hi Ricki,
Can I assume that you're speaking about Lenehan? You mentioned them the other day and a light went on. I remember well when his first tiny, perfectionist monitor came out. It was beautiful and I actually considered buying a pair. I went back to the site for the first time in forever the other day to see that he now has two larger models. They must be really something to hear! They're beautiful too.
There is a man who really attends to all of the details! 

https://www.audiophilia.com/reviews/2016/5/28/lenehan-audio-ml1-loudspeaker?rq=lenehan

These look like brass screws holding the speakers.