Replacing driver screws with brass screws


There was some discussion about this on Millercarbon's thread about the Moab speakers, and I wanted to pursue the subject further without interfering with his thread.
As I stated there, I have heard about this practice for quite a few years, but never tried it because it seemed like one of those lunatic fringe ideas; and even though I actually really enjoy trying tweaks, and have found many of them effective, I just was not prepared for what this one did for the music coming out of my speakers. 
Specifically, it improved the detail in ambient trails, focus in general, complex harmonics in voices and stringed instruments, and instrumental separation. It is not subtle, and it is immediately noticeable.
So, I am curious to know how many of you out there have tried this, and what your experience has been.
Thanks, John  
128x128roxy54
There are several types of brass most have 59 to 63 % copper and up to 3% lead the balance being zinc. I use 3 different brass types in my endpin designs for cello, though predominantly just 1 type. The differences are audible. I also use rare earth materials in conjunction with the brass and it is these materials that make my endpins more or less reactive to touch and vibration. Specific mix ratios of materials are part of the blend.

Most metric sized brass is c385. Metric sized threads are what holds most domes in place to a tweeter bezel..These are the closest screws to the moving coil and will disturb the flux field of the moving coil if they are steel..which they always are in my experience. You should definitely replace these with non ferrous fasteners..brass is what I know.  Brass has between 35 and 70 % slower shear velocity than most commonly used metals.
Low shear metals sound the best in my opinion..other than lead and tin.
There is a very audible difference between using a small steel set screw and one of brass within my endpins. The steel screws the whole sonic balance off and required a total rebuild. Tom
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There is a Audiogon member who replaced all of the steel fasteners on his PBN speakers with brass.  He has them within a Star Sound Energy Room. Tom
Cast copper is used in both sets of speakers in my system page, in fact the paint on my smaller pair was matched to the copper screws!


 My Focus speakers arrived by freight with very loose screws/drivers.  The bass was not right.  I tightened the screws where I thought they were tight, but not overtightened.  No problems with loose drivers or floppy bass since then (I did recheck them after last years home move).   I never had a problem with loose screws on my Signature IIIs.  I moved those locally.  Speakers (as well as other equipment) get jostled quite a bit in freight transport.
"Glupson"
Brass machine screws, "Or any other type",  don't need any info from the manufacturer to give you "any" given specs. The geometry of the part "Screw", does that for you. They are standardized globally at this point. You just need to know the alloy and standard used, "Like S.A.E. for instance", which should be on the packaging even if coded. All with the exception of real oddities are in any machinist handbook. 
Also the studies do call out different alloys of all commonly used materials as applicable. And zinc was one of the metals as well as everything else used today. Standard or forged brass showed no filtering effects. 
Is "Brass" the answer? NO!
Just another piece of the puzzle to play with that we have limited knowledge of and about.
But I keep wondering about the "exact" point at which the "Electrical expression of the waveform coalesces into that waveform. "Which should be instantaneous". And exterior forms of energy affecting the launch. If you can clean the area up as far as stray particles and stabilize the fields a little you could also retard phasing I think. But I think it's beyond the "Classical" physics modeling of field theory and well into....
    I'll be quiet now.......