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Duelund conversion to DIY Helix Geometry Cabling

I have been an avid user of the Duelund cabling for over two years now and have used them exclusively in my system with great results. I have built many for friends and have used a full loom of interconnects, speaker cables, power cords and an extensive wiring modification for a previously owned balanced power conditioner utilizing Duelund 600V PolyCast wiring which was transformative. My cabling desires can be a little addictive as I have owned and evaluated 40+ brands of cabling costing more than an entire stereo system!

Over the past six months I stumbled upon a thread here on Audiogon in regards to a Helix designed cabling and as you probably already know, I just had to look a little deeper into this cable design…After a month of studying and sourcing parts, I decided to reach out to the designer/architect, Williewonka who gave more insights and philosophy on how the cable came into existence.

That conversation got the ball rolling in converting one of my KLE Duelund interconnects to Steve’s Helix designed which only entailed replacing the neutral with a Mil-Spec 16 AWG silver-plated copper wire with the neural wire being 3 times longer than the signal wire and of course the “Coiling” of the neutral wire : )

After the modification was complete, I was not sure what to expect from the Helix cabling but I was quite shocked with the results with “ZERO” burn-in time…The sound stage became much wider/deeper with a much tighter/focused image and clarity/transparency is like nothing I have ever heard in any cabling regardless of cost. In fact, I just sold a full loom of a commercially designed Helix Cable that’s renowned around the world and has more direct sale than any cable manufacturer; these $200 DIY Helix Cables walked all over them…

I believe you will hear the same results as I have and have heard back from friends who have already modified their Duelunds with the same results; WOW! Remember the cables will need 200+ hours to burn-in and settle into your system. My system is now 90% DIY Helix to include IC, SC, PC and Coax with each cabling adding its beauty of an organic and natural presentation that draws you into the fabric of the music.

You can tailor the sound of your cables using Duelund, Mundorf silver/1% gold, the outstanding Vh Audio OCC Solid Copper or Silver with Airlok Insulation or your favorite wiring and you can change it at any time…

 

http://www.image99.net/blog/files/category-diy-cables.html

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/difference-in-sound-between-copper-and-silver-digital-cables

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/adding-shielding-to-existing-cables

 

Enjoy,

Wig


128x128wig
williewonka
3,075 posts
 
For some, those tabs look very fragile, but they actually allow for a much better joint than trying to solder a wire to a hefty neutral barrel like those on the Furutech RCA’s and they are so much easier connect a wire to than trying to get a wire down the center of the signal pin if re-attaching a previously used RCA

But they do allow you to apply the heat under the tab while holding the wire on top of the tab for a perfect solder joint. You can see the solder melt right into the wire & tab

You do need to secure that little plug though - I insert mine into a old RCA socket that is held in a vice - that leaves both hands free

But that’s just my opinion after having reused my Harmony RCA’s many times.

As for sound quality - I’m with @grannyring - they are the best sounding RCA plug I have ever used.

Regards - Steve


corelli
1,000 posts
 
I certainly wouldn't challenge you guys--you have far more experience than I ever will.  I have no doubt those little tabs heat up quickly and afford a good solder joint.  My OCD kicks in however when solder is the primary conductor in this type of design.  The Furutech 111 plug uses low mass high quality gold plated pure copper for both signal and return.  The set screw is on the both legs as well, so no soldering the return to a high mass barrel.  It really is a nice design-check it out.  
grannyring's avatar
grannyring
6,504 posts
 
Solder is not the primary conductor if you do this right. The bottom line is the KLEIs sound better.  Better sounding connector when soldered properly with very little solder and bare wire to tab direct connection. I have some tips.  
williewonka
3,075 posts
 
I’m with @grannyring

But the other thing to consider is the type solder you use...
- I have recommended WBT 4% silver solder in the past
- but I now prefer eutectic solders because they seem to flow more easily, become solid very quickly and make a very robust joint using less solder
- CARDAS makes a eutectic solder, but I have not tried it - yet

The Furutech 111 plug does look very nice and easy to install for people that do not like soldering or for those who believe clamping is a better method of fastening

But for me - the Absolute Harmony RCA is the only plug on my cables

Regards - Steve




grannyring's avatar
grannyring
6,504 posts
 
When building ICs with these KLE Innovation plugs consider  the following aids and techniques. 

- use WBT 4% silver solder. I like the leaded one better.  Just wash your hands after and use a fan/filter to keep the smoke away from your nostrils. 

- use an old piece of gear or some $10 Goodwill CD player etc... to plug your KLEI male connector into.  This makes it so much easier to solder.  The jack is now hands free secured and won’t budge! 

- make sure you have a good soldering iron. Preferably one that offers variable heat settings.   Set it to 800 - 850 degrees.  Yes this hot. You want to get in and out fast.....2 seconds. 

- tin the bare VH Audio wire. I find it not necessary to tin the forked tab. 

The 18 gauge VH Audio wire should rest inside the fork portion of the KLEI tab with a little bit of the stripped  wire protruding past (over) the forked tab. I like to place a little weight onto the wire a few inches down from the from the solder point. This holds the stripped wire down with pressure against the forked tab. I rest a set of pliers over the wire to accomplish this. 

Time to solder.  Get in and out in 2 seconds or so with your very hot soldering iron. Use very little solder.  Just enough to assure a strong connection. You don’t want to see blobs or areas where the solder is thick. 
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