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Basement listing room


So…I have lost the eternal battle over tower speakers in the family room.

However, I know I’m in good company and would like some advice on my Plan B.

Here’s the current family room set-up:


Stereo Listing:

Induction Dynamics ID-1 Tower Speakers

Parasound A21 2-channel amp

Marantz AV Receiver SR6013

Source – mostly Tidal Hi-Res

Additional components for surround sound in same room:

4 Induction dynamic ID-S2 Bookshelf speakers

1 Induction dynamics ID-S2 Center Channel

1 ID-SWC4 Induction Dynamics subwoofer

Induction Dynamics A2 subwoofer amp

My plan is to keep the 5 smaller-profile speakers & sub in the family room for surround sound set up. I’ll shift to using two bookshelf speakers and the sub for music listening in that room.

I can then take the towers downstairs and give them their own home.

Right now, the basement is raw space. Poured concrete floors and walls. Ceiling height of 7’6’ in the main area, and 7’1” in a 2nd section. Rough dimensions 29’ x 41’

I’ve linked to a floorplan with exact dimensions. (I did not clutter the diagram with ductwork, plumbing, support columns, etc, which I know should be considered, but the main mechanicals and noise factors are on the other side of the basement, opposite the stairs, and sufficiently isolated (not shown on diagram)):


https://www.dropbox.com/s/3579jgzeiw8j4l8/Basement%20finish-able%20space.pdf?dl=0

I have two main questions for all the way-more-knowledgeable-than-me folks on this forum (I’m an amateur in this audioworld, though a lover of music since forever).

1) Does creating a listening room in the basement make sense given the space as described above? I can take up as much or as little of that space as needed. If it makes sense, what would be:

a. the ideal dimensions

b. the ideal placement of speakers/components given dimensions

c. the ideal materials? (I don’t have a budget per-se, but would like to find the best balance of quality-for-price. To put it another away, I’m not going to skimp where there are real gains to be had, but I don’t want to cross that line of diminishing returns)

2) What is the best why to maximize existing components without duplicating unless necessary? For example, the Marantz has two zones, I assume it’d make sense to use that feature. I can run wire/cables easily between family room and basement – though some of distances could be long depending on how the room ends up configured.) I marked on the diagram where my equipment currently resides on the main floor above.

a. If I were to improve my current stereo system (DAC, pre-amp, etc?), could those be configured to also benefit the upstairs system? Or do I need independent components for each set-up now? What are your recommendations to bring this system to the next level?

I’m sure there will be a lot of opinions on all this, but I appreciate any help/direction I can get! Thanks in advance!


skimantra2001
p05129
483 posts
 
thecarpathian/jetter- I agree with you on the bracelets for millercarbon but the cost of the bracelet is worth more than any of the bogus info he has to offer. He is the only person who can buy cheap audio gear, make a $5 tweak, and all of a sudden it’s a $1,000,000 beater.
As for this post, your AV receiver is the weak link for your audio system. I would recommend getting a nice audio preamp with a home theater bypass input so you get quality audio plus you can route your 5 channel thru the Audio preamp
93cobra
16 posts
 
My system Is a basement setup.  It took some playing around with room treatments to get it dialed in.  
flrun's avatar
flrun
92 posts
 
I have a Marantz 8805 and I agree with everyone else. The 8805 is excellent at what it does, home theater but at the end of the day I listen to music as much or more than movies and I am going to get a dedicated 2 channel system.
rocray's avatar
rocray
1,448 posts
 
Oldhvymec has some good advice. Slowly building a dedicated 2ch system is a great idea. Get yourself set up with the basics,and build up from there as funds allow. Sometimes budgets force us into compromises.  I think you can set up a nice sounding system in your basement. Will it be a drop ceiling,or drywall?  We had our basement finished about three years ago.  It’s an odd shaped room,about 25’x 18’ at its widest point. This room was strictly used as TV/Movie room. I set up a 5.4 ch HT system. (Currently only running 2 subs. I’ll be adding 2 more when funds allow. I ran all wires before the insulation and drywall went up.) 
 
       Recently I set up another 2.1 ch system in the room. I set the speakers up on the 25’front wall. We have no acoustic treatments up. There is only furniture and w2w carpet. I’m absolutely shocked that it sounds as good as it does. You might be in a trial and error situation. Try your speakers on a long wall,then try them on a shorter wall. You’ll probably know right away which placement is better,and then go from there. Best of luck! 
mijostyn's avatar
mijostyn
8,245 posts
 
Skimantra, Two issues. Your speakers can only be expected to load a given volume effectively. You do not want them getting lost. Space B is as large as I would want to go with most Tower speakers. Next, the development of a first class image requires perfect symmetry between the two channels. If one speaker is near a corner the other one had better be also. I do not care about the exact dimensions as long as they are dissimilar. Once set up you will have to do some sound absorption on the front and side walls. If you ever decide to add subs the front corners will be perfect. This size room is also good for bigger system's if you should ever go that way. A pair of Sound Labs 745's would do perfect here. This is your listening room. Make it the best you can and hang a sign on the door, "For Dads Only." The other space will make a great game room for everyone else. You might want to make that wall a sound wall. You use 2 X 6 Sill and cap then stagger 2 X 4 studs. Each wall gets its own set of studs on 16" centers. Other than the sill and cap there is no solid connection between the walls. This drops sound transfer at least 10 dB. 
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