2. digital
  3. 1128048826

Isolation Devices, Something to put on top of unit

Hello, I need to find a good device(s) /or/ method to kill the airborne vibrations that attack the top of my cd player and preamp... Basically the shelfs under the components are completly dead, you can not feel anthing coming thru the rack or the bottom of the units, its just the top plate of the unit, which is the largest and weakest surface area anyway... but again the rack is excellent, it has 3" thick maple shelfs and with full bass in the room does not show a hint of vibration. Don't get me wrong the system sounds excellent and never skips or does anything funny because of the top plates dancing to the music, but of course I would like to eliminate this.
-Should I just get some 2" solid maple blocks that fit on each unit and do it this way as this is how the shelfs are, with like a sheet of fabric inbetween or something?
-I would like to keep this situation as CHEAP as possible, again I would like the benifits but really the system performs flawlessly.

--I have a turntable in the system too, it never skiped once at full output so its good, the plater does not vibrate, just the dustcover(so I just leave it open

--Wadia CD player never has a problem but would like to put something on top. It does not get hot.

--Mcintosh Pre-amp like to put something on top, it does not get hot.

Thanks fellow audio people
matrix
theaudiotweak
2,805 posts
 
When properly grounded mechanically you want to provide only one surface for vibration to exit. By having something on top you are disrupting the energy flow at the bottom of the chassis which can be grounded more easily and effectively. If you are concerned with quieting the chassis yet still want to couple properly try using all brass hardware to mount the lid, circuit boards,transformers etc. within the component itself. The brass has superior sound quality does not ring like the typical steel hardware used and is non ferrous so it is less disruptive to signal flow within a component or speaker.Tom
matrix OP
305 posts
 
very interesting, problem is the Wadia is like a damn lockbox, can't get it open without some special tools, it uses a very off size like 2.5 mm Torx bit, which yes I can remove a few, but can't get the rest as it has some type of internal latches... also it does not have "Top" plate it is all one box that slides off the unit in one piece, so it is not seperate where you can just take of the plate, virtually they entire unit would need to come apart... I am not sure but I believe they did this to Deter anyone from trying to easily copy the digimaster system housed inside.
theaudiotweak
2,805 posts
 
Matrix the most important thing is to provide one coherent directional surface for vibration to collect and exit. Having multiple exit points makes for less coherence instead of more coherence.That is the result I hear.Tom
wc65mustang
524 posts
 
I don't think we need dealers giving advice about products they sell do we? Do it via private email. Conflict of interest IMO.
theaudiotweak
2,805 posts
 
Use any product you want that you think may direct couple.Let's see I use long hair carded wool that decouples I use products from Dyna Mat that decouple I buy 360 brass for chassis and brass hardware for mounting of components 2023 aircraft aluminum used for crossover chassis's those all couple energy. Acoustic angles I speak about in the redirection of energy in a listening room.Instead of buying materials that take away the breath of the music. All of the previous I have mentioned in other threads having to do with energy transfer or storage.You can buy these materials almost anywhere ..I buy them or build them and use them in my installations. Nothing for sale by me here just offering my experience. Tom
More to discover