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Speakers Nominal Power handling/Amplifier

My Canton k9  bookshelf speakers have a nominal power handling of 120/200 watts,  SPL of 87db my Technic integrated amp SU-G700 has 70 watts into 8 ohms,140 into 4 ohms.  As an aside, my source is a Marantzcd6006  CD player.
What does Nominal power mean for me in terms of music reproduction in my system? Specifically Will the speakers perform to there potential with my 70 watt amp? I read that nominal power relates to the power your amp should have to drive these speakers. So what am I missing with only 70 watts per channel besides playing louder? what would an amp with 120 to 200 watts give  the speakers that would improve the music? Am I placing my speakers at risk using less power then what the speakers can handle?
I'm a rookie with zip, zero, nada, listening experience to fall back on that is at all relevant so take this with a grain of salt I freakin love the sound detailed(decay of strings and brushes on symbols, fingers plucking guitar strings etc) soundstage( speakers vanish instruments are here there everywhere but not outside of speaker footprint and not real deep front to back )imaging ( instruments have there own place voices are in the center) not harsh or bright but detailed not warm sounding. How much better could it get with a more powerful amp? I can only imagine what a high-end system must sound like!
An observation no audio stores are within 50 miles, unless I count BestBuy so I sadly I must rely on reviews for the most part and what I read here. Regards Scott
scott22
elliottbnewcombjr
5,197 posts
 
I remember the first Canton's I heard, very nice, and beautifully made. Like KEF, they were one of the few inefficient speakers I would have considered having IF I wanted/needed that size.

They are high end 'stand mounted', not bookshelf, they are 15" deep, and have a rear port.

They need plenty of power to reach enough volume, especially to avoid distortion during momentary peaks of power hungry frequencies. IF you use them with a stereo pair of self-powered subs, connected to subtract the low bass requirements from the main amp, then a less powerful amp will work, and, the speakers and it's port will not need to try and make low bass.

I always recommend higher efficiency speakers (if you find some you love) because that means less power is needed, which, buying SS saves money for other equipment/content. AND, importantly, reduces the power enough to try Tubes. In this case, using a stereo pair of self powered subs, reducing the need to significantly amplify low bass, an affordable tube amp could more easily be considered.

It's not just money, the weight, size, heat, all relate to placement options.
scott22 OP
241 posts
 
Millercarbon, Lowrider 57, elliottbnewcombjr,
Thank you for your time and expertise. it was educational and insightful. The speakers could play a bit louder on occasion with certain recordings but on most of my listening, the sound level is fine. My integrated amp has analog meters called "wide range scale peak power meter" and at loud levels the needle at the -10db/10% with occasional spikes to 0db/100% which I assume means I'm at 100% of amps power which is 70 watts (I know the assumption makes asses etc.) I try to avoid any spikes going higher then that for fear of clipping and damaging my speakers and or amp. 
Since I just bought the speakers and amp and I am riveted by the music presentation noted above I won't be selling them anytime soon. I just do not want to damage my gear as it was a financial stretch. 
  • How should I hook up the sub-woofer? Paul McGowan PS Audio in his videos says to run speaker cables from your amps left and right channels to the subs left and right channels but I can't see that relieving the bass signal from the stand-mounted Cantons. There is an instruction in the amps manual that shows an illustration that says "preout right and left" to a sub's Audio in right and left". I assume( here I go again assuming) that by making that connection the amp somehow knows there is a sub and separates the signal to run the low frequencies to the sub and the mids and highs to the Cantons is this correct and would that be the proper set up in my situation?
 
yogiboy's avatar
yogiboy
5,485 posts
 
The only way to relieve the bass from the mains is to use a high pass filter. You can’t do that with an integrated amp if the amp does not have a preamp in and preamp out feature! The sub also needs a preamp in and preamp out feature that goes through a high pass filter!
lowrider57's avatar
lowrider57
5,396 posts
 
with occasional spikes to 0db/100%

You’re correct to monitor these spikes in power output. But the fact is that peaks and transients in music are probably going higher than the meters can indicate. Even with a sub you may not be able to push this amp. If the amp is a keeper, then a sub or a sub array is the way to go.


lowrider57's avatar
lowrider57
5,396 posts
 
I see that your amp has line out and one preamp output. Using an active powered sub (or two) relieves the amp from using all it's current to power the bass. The subs have internal amps that supplement the main amp.

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