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Adding a sub woofer?

Running a Planar 6 to Icon Audio Ps1 Mk2 to Quicksilver Mid Monos into Klipsch RP8000F speakers. Want more low end, thinking of adding a sub. The mono blocks don't have a dedicated sub output so I was thinking about something like a PSB 250 which has both pre amp and speaker level inputs with speaker level outputs. A couple of questions.

What are the pros and cons of using the sub's preamp level inputs vs the speaker level inputs in this application?

And more importantly, right now my setup is pretty much tube analogue the whole way (and aside from the soft low end, I absolutely love the overall sound) - but does an inline sub like this do any processing, will it color the mids and highs in some way or is it just a clean pass-through in terms of sending the signal along to the speakers? 

Thanks for sharing your thoughts. 
Ryan
spotconlon
wolf_garcia
6,708 posts
 
Regardless of Millercarbon's snarky condescension (per usual), RELs are NOT inherently "lumpy" unless set up badly, and a single one can work. Not everybody has room for a Swarm of four subs and many can get along with one well placed REL or another well designed brand. And there is a big difference between high level power amp driven signal and a single ended preamp signal as ideally the sub should sound like the amp, and the high level REL style works swimmingly. For reasons noted by atmasphere and others, using two subs (I use 2 RELs) can eliminate standing wave issues and get a room in tune easily, but if you can't afford 2 subs, simply get one and add another later if you feel the need.
mijostyn's avatar
mijostyn
8,570 posts
 
One subwoofer can be very frustrating to an astute listener. Best to get at least two to start. Then they are matching. If you can't afford two save longer. 
If you use an appropriate crossover they will not color the midrange at all but interestingly give you more sense of depth in the midrange. There is more air in the room. It is an effect that most people notice. Turn off the subs and everything goes flat. But, the crossover is critical and the only ones that offer total control of frequency and slope are digital. People who are married to total analog miss out on this. JL Audio makes a decent analog crossover. 
wolf_garcia
6,708 posts
 
I'm an "astute listener" and years ago added a REL Q150e which transformed my system...the adjustments on that REL are comprehensive for phase, level matching, and "crossover" matching, all easily done for excellent sound. Digital woofer control can add delay that isn't so great so I avoid digital nannies.
dhite71
331 posts
 
I don't know that I have ever appreciated a change in the midrange of my system with the subs active.  It is very intriguing how this could even happen with nothing changing at the signal the main speakers are receiving.  I suppose it is all about room acoustics and not what is leaving the speakers' cones, but what ends up getting to your ears.  
ieales's avatar
ieales
1,201 posts
 
I don't know that I have ever appreciated a change in the midrange of my system with the subs active.
When done properly, i.e. not using idiotic full range pass through the sub but a crossover that removes the bass & possibly some of the mid-bass from the mains, the LF driver has a fair portion of its work removed, allowing it to better handle the upper part of its range. The mains' power amplifier loafs, having gotten an effective 2x+ power increase by removal of the lower registers.

I'll wager dollars to doughnuts that six nines have never heard a properly integrated sub.
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