How it works! From a common man.

My thinking is the dust is VERY sharp, and harder than  the surface material on the fuse and the holder. Second, I'm talking a VERY small potion of dust VERY small. Lets make that clear. My thinking, again, is the particles are spaced pretty far apart, AND the only thing that won't migrate very well BUT enough, not to stack. For the lack of a better term.

Remove the dampening control for 2-300 hours, the dust will cut into the material, until it's "almost" metal to metal and then NOT move again after the dampening is put back in.. That metal to metal and what is left it won't be the dust. Again my thinking..

Just thinkin out loud.. The fuse holders are spring loaded, the question is HOW. The spring can be a problem too, I suppose.

Regards

One thing to keep in mind though, if the dust is very sharp and penetrates the metal surface, that could be akin to metal spikes on snow tires, i.e would prevent any further movement except in the direction of trying to penetrate the metal which may not be the required or optimum movement for closest contact.

The biggest benefit or change of the "combo" may not be electrical but thermal.

The Emperor has no clothes!

This is incredibly stupid.

So. This “fuse” has ac current going through it, doesn’t it? ALTERNATING current? The kind that doesn’t give a tinker’s behind which end of a fuse is tapered?

And “graphene” paste?? Give me a BREAK! Graphene is a single atom thick hexagonal lattice of carbon atoms. Like a honey comb. You mean graphite paste, don’t you?? Yes. You do.

So gullible! I’d bet you I can pretend to fiddle-fart with your “fuse” and have you A/B it, and you’d SWEAR it sounds better after I “fixed” it!!

Asinine and idiotic. Yup. Both!

Isn't there an effect on the artifacts, in the path?  You know while it's playing, or working? I call it settling in, not the same as breaking in.
I understood it takes a while to form this "skin" in the path, over fuses, screw connection, plugs THROUGH everything, and over everything.

Am I wrong? Something's happening!

A disconnect, and reconnect, a part change, an old cable swap, to an existing system. SETTLING in.

All new or reconditioned, out of the box, hookup and BREAKING in.

Some call it burn it, I don't.

When a system settles, why does it sound different?

Why when a system is breaking in, it changes sound, it some cases 100s and sometimes a thousand or so hours, to finally Break in.

Teflons. Man oh man.

Everything is going great. Your wonderful NEW talented opare, decides to clean all around your system. She mindfly makes a mental note of your speaker cables, disconnects them and cleans. 

She puts everything back perfectly. You come home, set down, turn on the system, let it warm up for 10-15 and start listening.

It sounds different, YOU got an idea, because you've heard things like this before....

Why is it 3-4 hours in the winter and 2 hours at least in the summer, for things to settle beck in.. If it has that graphene stuff, forget about it. A week. I NEVER use it on a working joint, With locks maybe, a new wall socket.. 
  
I did the inside of a valve amp, recently, it's going back into service, left was done the right is not...Anything that was coupled in the power supply path right to the transformer (s). Everything from that point on is soldered.. I'm thinking valve pins too, gotta help, heat and a contact enhancer.

I wonder what it will be like, if it will make a difference.. It can't hurt..NO DRIPS.. LOL

Regards