Okay, I stumbled across my name being mentioned so I signed up. I just want to say a few things as a retipper. First of all, it’s not for everyone. Chakster’s mind is clearly made up about the subject and he takes a dim view. There are a lot of assumptions to what he says, namely strict uniformity and perfection to be found with any factory made cartridge as well as zero error and perfect tolerance. The basis of his reservations go like this: Every single cartridge ever made by any manufacturer is perfectly thought out and engineered to the highest degree of precision. Any change to this formula is a degradation. Okay. We get it. Makes sense. Now, to poke some holes.
I’m not interested in weak cartridges or average level carts, those inferior cartridges can be upgraded like those cheap oldschool broadcast Denon 103, but I am talking about very good cartridges, exceptional performers and you can’t upgrade them (or you can only pretend to upgrade them, if fact you can return them back to life at certain cost if the owner willing to pay that, you’re biased to sell this service).
I often referring to exotic MM cartridges, re-tipping or refurbishing MM is not worth it because original styli available (sometimes very hard to find, but available from time to time), the rest is degradation and waste of money. If one MM is broken then another top quality MM can be even better (definitely better than refurbished MM).
Regarding some old MC cartridges I don’t understand why anyone have to proceed with a third party re-tipping or refurbishing service if another working cartridges available for sale? Maybe those Koetsu owners suffering, because the cartridge is extremely expensive and they can save a lot on a third party re-tip, but why then buy a Koetsu if you can’t afford factory service in Japan from Koetsu? This is just an example of strange human behavior.
Chakster himself says to buy a slew of the same model of cartridge to get an idea of what the cartridge is supposed to sound like. Hidden in this advice is Chakster’s own observation that many individual examples of the same exact model of cartridge are going to sound different from each other even though they use all the same parts, are built by the same people and must have the same degree of quality in their construction which is higher quality than any retipper can provide.
But if this is the case, then how does one explain why these cartridges that should all be uniformly exactly the same and perfect sound so different from each other?
If a cartridge from one manufacturer sound different from sample to sample then this is a very bad manufacturer. I’m happy to buy many samples of rare vintage MM because they are exceptional and I like the way they sound. To make sure those models are top quality I have to buy many and compare them to other MM, MI and LOMC. I’m looking for cartridges in perfect condition like new or even unused NOS. Never owned two samples of one NOS cartridge that can sound different.
Next assumption: Cartridge manufacturers use exclusive parts that are available only to them. This is partially true. I have never been able to get the gold plated tapered boron cantilever that Audio-Technica offers except by purchasing an Audio-Techica stylus at retail.
You’re not able to buy not only exclusive Gold-Plated Boron PIPE cantilevers made for AT only, I want to remind you that Beryllium cantilevers are no longer available for anyone in the business. You are not able to get short Dynavector prism Ruby or DIAMOND cantilevers, because it’s Dynavector’s exclusive. You can’t buy Boron cantilevers with attached Pipe in font of it, because it’s ZYX exclusive. What else? SONY Diamond cantilever and stylus tip is one piece of diamond. I can remind you about extremely rare Grace Ceramic Pipe cantilevers exclusively made for Grace in the 80’s, but i’m sure nobody even know it’s exist.
Glue on the tip: All manufacturers use glue. The very idea that there is no glue holding a diamond into place on any cantilever assembly save the solid diamond/stylus feat of engineering by Yamaha or Sony whoever it was is just not the case. Manufacturers often use less glue than a retipper will, but manufacturers will also turn their backs on you if a diamond falls off, and they do fall off. A retipper wants to make sure the diamond stays on and a retipper knows that the extra epoxy is of such low mass that it’s not going to affect the ETM in any meaningful way.
Namiki uses wads of glue to hold their Micro Ridge onto a boron cantilever. So do retippers. The diamond itself is so small that the glue is negligible. If under testing I were ever to notice tracing issues, then I would use less glue. But the only stylus that is really fussy about keeping things extremely low mass is a Pickering or Stanton stylus. These really need someone who can work to the absolutely lowest mass repair possibly or you will have sibilance. This is why the aftermarket styli are often not so great.
Modern cartridges is not what i;m talking about, some of them are indeed got cantilevers/styli from the same suppliers, but there are an exceptions too.
Reto Luigi Andreoli (trained by Garrott Brothers) is not the one who will buy any parts for his Bluelectic cartridges from well known suppliers. How about his Synthobionic cantilever ? Many cartridge designers doing their own thing and very proud of it!
I’m sorry, but you can’t do this like the Japanese manufacturer 30 years ago. This is SONY Boron pipe with press-fit diamond. Where is the glue here?
Another example of the Boron PIPE (not available for any manufacturer nowadays) is Grace - LEVEL II BR/MR, again press-fit and it’s Boron, no glue. Technics did nearly the same and what makes those MM cartridges so special is extremely low effective mass (because of the very special cantilever and stylus combo).
In my opinion it’s weird to retip MM cartridges like Stanton or Pickering or any MM cartridges, because original styli are still available NOS.
Titanium pipe cantilever and no glue again. It’s Victor X1IIe. How anyone can re-tip this ?
I take enormous pride in my work. I really enjoy retipping and getting cartridges to work again. I can go on and on and on on this topic, but I only wanted to address a few points since I was sort of summoned and I have read chakster’s opinions a number of times and I just wanted to respond to some of them. They are the kinds of arguments that are made when someone insists on a type of perfection that simply does not exist in this world, even by their own observations which they choose to simply ignore.
All pictures above made by myself using my own cartridges and I have many more. I have nothing against your job, hobby or business. I want to spread the light a bit on rare and exotic cartridges that simply impossible to re-tip without degrade the quality in my opinion. Re-tipper of refurbished carts like that are no longer unique. There are some exceptional vintage MM cartridges, some of them are not very expensive compared to modern LOMC.
Suspension wear and age: well overstated. I have retipped probably thousands of cartridges by now, many of them decades old. There are a few examples of particular models with known issues (Shure V15 Type IV is a big one), and some others to a lesser degree, but otherwise, suspension rubbers are basically stable. Some have fragile suspensions that will likely break if the cantilever is ever broken, like the Denon DL301 MKII and almost any Audio-Technica, and others just go soft over time like some Yamahas whose suspension donut simply liquifies and actually evaporates. Supex SD901 Super (but not the SD900 Super or any other Supex in my experience, all of which are extremely stable) just turns to goop most of the time. Storage conditions are more of a predictor of whether a suspension will be bad. But most people will store a broken cartridge in a dark, cool environment away from moisture, like the sock drawer, as a matter of instinct.
All those are mediocre level cartridges, except for Audio-Technica, and I disagree that AT have weak suspension, I bought so many AT moving magnet carts (top models in many samples) from the 80’s and they are all just fine, no problem with suspension (AT-ML150, AT-ML170, AT-ML180).