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Dedicated Music Room Recessed Lighting (High Hats)?

The music room is down to studs.  Rewired the entire room and in the process added 7 high hats.  They were to be used to make the room very bright for cleaning, playing with wires etc.  I also have four sconces that will get the old style low wattage Edison bulbs for lighting during listening (as well as a lamp or two).  It did not occur to me that although the "cans" won't be used during music the "cans" may buzz. I've been told this by three audiophiles and a home theater guy.  Two emphatically tell me to "rip them out while you can".  Others have told me just go get the automotive sound deadening sheets (cut and stick on the cans). The room has been insulated with Roxul SAFB (Sound Absorbing Fire Barrier) in batt form 6" in the walls 9" in the ceiling. Does anyone have any experience with cans rattling or buzzing?
Should I rip them out?  Yes I do listen to music very loud at times. Thanks.
Regards, barts  
barts
lpretiring
478 posts
 
"Glued and screwed" is the route I took but with a couple extra steps a long time ago converting my garage to an audio room. Used double 1/2" sheetrock along with 3 headers between each stud. Along with concrete slab this room was solid.
Here's a little story from a few years ago.
During a period of sanity I temporarily left audiophileville and the structure was modified to function as a garage again.
One night three years ago a young drunk driver decided my house was a street and plowed right into the outside corner of my garage. The siding, the corner, corner of the garage door, fence, and landscaping were pretty messed up. The interior a couple cracked studs and a little drywall wrinkling. The insurance company could not understand initially why the garage did not partially collapse. Not a common building practice that our kind strive for I guess.
Anyway, pertaining to your vibration concerns Herbie's advised me about Permatex Blue. Stuff is used for gasket sealing and is also great for vibration control. It is the consistency of toothpaste and solidifies in about 30-60 minutes. I have it in many components with excellent results. Maybe it can be a benefit in your project.

LP

barts's avatar
barts OP
765 posts
 
oldhvymec,
I should have mentioned that the entire room was sprayed with commercial sound absorbing open cell foam.  Then Roxul SAFB to fill up all the cavities, so the wires are all or nearly all are foamed into place.  I have yet to pull some of the Roxul out from around the "cans" mainly because I hate that stuff.  To round out the picture for you the floor is concrete slab. Not very much sound energy can get in or out of the room. Thanks.
Regards,
barts   
barts's avatar
barts OP
765 posts
 
dekay,
Funny how I never ran into the tactile transducers before.  I took a look and the few I looked at only go down to about 100-300hz.  My rig is really full range.  Took quite a bit of work in the last iteration of this room to stop random buzzing (think opening of DSOTM).  That's why this time it is a full rip out and start from scratch. Thanks.
Regards,
barts
barts's avatar
barts OP
765 posts
 
lpretiring,
I’ve used permatex for gaskets. I’m thinking that its essentially a hi-temp version of RTV sealant as well as unaffected by petroleum products. Did not know it was good for vibration control. Thanks.
Regards,
barts
bkeske's avatar
bkeske
5,597 posts
 
In the industry, we have mostly moved away from the ‘can light’ housings and trims. Almost all our projects use the new LED fixtures that look like recessed fixtures. They are cheaper, small and shallow (can actually fit into a 1/2 space, which makes them extremely versatile as you don’t have to worry about HVAC, plumbing, or even the joists or rafters to place them), so can fit practically anywhere, and have no parts that can ‘rattle’ at all.

look at those, that is what the industry is moving towards. I have not used a standard recessed ‘can’ fixture in over two years.
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