Duelund conversion to DIY Helix Geometry Cabling


I have been an avid user of the Duelund cabling for over two years now and have used them exclusively in my system with great results. I have built many for friends and have used a full loom of interconnects, speaker cables, power cords and an extensive wiring modification for a previously owned balanced power conditioner utilizing Duelund 600V PolyCast wiring which was transformative. My cabling desires can be a little addictive as I have owned and evaluated 40+ brands of cabling costing more than an entire stereo system!

Over the past six months I stumbled upon a thread here on Audiogon in regards to a Helix designed cabling and as you probably already know, I just had to look a little deeper into this cable design…After a month of studying and sourcing parts, I decided to reach out to the designer/architect, Williewonka who gave more insights and philosophy on how the cable came into existence.

That conversation got the ball rolling in converting one of my KLE Duelund interconnects to Steve’s Helix designed which only entailed replacing the neutral with a Mil-Spec 16 AWG silver-plated copper wire with the neural wire being 3 times longer than the signal wire and of course the “Coiling” of the neutral wire : )

After the modification was complete, I was not sure what to expect from the Helix cabling but I was quite shocked with the results with “ZERO” burn-in time…The sound stage became much wider/deeper with a much tighter/focused image and clarity/transparency is like nothing I have ever heard in any cabling regardless of cost. In fact, I just sold a full loom of a commercially designed Helix Cable that’s renowned around the world and has more direct sale than any cable manufacturer; these $200 DIY Helix Cables walked all over them…

I believe you will hear the same results as I have and have heard back from friends who have already modified their Duelunds with the same results; WOW! Remember the cables will need 200+ hours to burn-in and settle into your system. My system is now 90% DIY Helix to include IC, SC, PC and Coax with each cabling adding its beauty of an organic and natural presentation that draws you into the fabric of the music.

You can tailor the sound of your cables using Duelund, Mundorf silver/1% gold, the outstanding Vh Audio OCC Solid Copper or Silver with Airlok Insulation or your favorite wiring and you can change it at any time…

 

http://www.image99.net/blog/files/category-diy-cables.html

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/difference-in-sound-between-copper-and-silver-digital-cables

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/adding-shielding-to-existing-cables

 

Enjoy,

Wig


128x128wig
Yes indeed two is all you need, but 18-20 gauge would be better if they had it to try. Even when I tried the Mundorf solid core silver/gold the 18 gauge was better than the thinner gauges. Crazy expensive however. Zenwave is a cable seller, not DIY wire seller? Right?

Have you tried the VH silver 18 gauge in your ICs? I find it rather perfect. Two runs on the positive.

Sounds like you were able to purchase some wire from Zenwave?
@ grannyring

I used the VH OCC 18 Ga in my IC for over 2 months but it became too forward sounding and noticed that images are more solid with copper when compared directly but it’s a balance for sure because I was initially using all OCC silver.

Currently using OCC silver in Dac and CD Transport PC with great results...

Zenwave Audio is a cable seller and does sell cabling for DIY purposes and sells very good built cabling as well.

Wig : )
Agree that all silver VH is too much in a system. I like it as the digital source cable only, USB or SPDIF etc...

I have always liked Neotech silver/gold stranded and would love to try the solid core in Teflon. 
I'd like to build a Double Double Helix cable.  I'll probably go with 18 awg Airlok for the hot and 16 awg mil spec from TFA for the return.  The only thing bothering me is how the hot and return can move in relation to each other.  That can't be a good thing, can it? 

I saw someone, maybe Grannyring, mention using cotton braid over the hot run to fill the gap.  What sizes and how many layers are necessary to fill the gap with the wire gauges I have settled on?
Am I overthinking it?  Is the cotton braid even necessary?
Yes the cotton is smart.  7mm outer diameter works good. 5mm internal diameter.