16 ohm speakers: any amp sounds better with more resolution. speaker cables less critical.


First,
  
Thanks to anyone who responds with whatever answers/opinions/advice comes from this. I'm retired, covid bound, Donna is taking care of everything holiday related, too much time, always curious.
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I happened across this in an old thread started by Ralph (atmasphere)

"Sixteen ohms, BTW is a very simple means for getting more resolution out of your system, as nearly every amplifier made sounds better on 16 ohms than it will on 4 or 8 ohms. Speaker cables become far less critical too."

My speakers are 16 ohms (Electrovoice horn tweeter, horn mid, 15" woofer, crossover, rheostats, from 1958).
Extremely efficient, I have more than enough power. Amp, now and in the past all had 16 ohm taps.
Of course I can hook them up to my Cayin's 8 ohm taps now and listen, but facts, opinions, advice, to learn is good.
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Lots of Questions? 

1. why/how do 16 ohm speakers make amps sound better, with more resolution? 

2. why speaker cables less critical? perhaps this is why I/we don't hear cable differences in my system?
I'm using my homemade twisted pair of cat 5 now (8 individually insulated small diameter solid core).

3.  to get exterior bias control: use 8 ohm tap for my 16 ohm speakers? (get alternate amp 4/8 no 16 tap,)

lose advantage(s)? 'sounds better'; 'more resolution'; 'speaker cables less critical'? 

this says slightly more mids:

http://blog.hughes-and-kettner.com/ohm-cooking-101-understanding-amps-speakers-and-impedance/

I can fine tune my speakers via their two rheostats: 'presence' and 'brilliance', so not really an issue for me.

4. Importance of Bias Control

how important is Bias? (I don't care about heat, power output, or tube life, just as bias affects sound). Frankly, using vintage tube receiver Fisher 500C, 800C and Fisher Mono Blocks 80Z, I have never checked or adjusted bias. I just put the control in the center position when cleaning insides/controls.

I have always used 16 ohm taps of various vintage tube and SS amps and newer current tube Cayin A88T. (original version, the only one with 16 ohm taps). It's bias control is internal, versions with safer external bias do not have 16 ohm taps.

5. replace their two rheostats? ('presence' and 'brilliance': copper wire-wound on ceramic body, mid/neutral position).
I have them in neutral position now, l/r frequency response equal.   

do I need to keep rheostats 16 ohms? use 8 ohm rheostat with 16 ohm drivers?

sales sheet says 16 ohm, but data sheet shows range 1.0 to 5k ohms. 

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/303/controls_rheostats-1228697.pdf

does that mean, the drivers will draw whatever they draw (varies thru frequency range anyway), doesn't matter as long as rheostat range starts 1.0 ohm, extends past say 100.0 ohms?

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/303/controls_rheostats-1228697.pdf

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thanks, Elliott











elliottbnewcombjr
Problem is that speaker manufacturers never gives the whole impedance facts/measurements/charts. Tha’s why generalizations to say 8 ohm speaker spec means almost nothing. I choosed at random ( between hundred of ST measurement. ) and you can read there that your words are not exactly rigth with some of those speakers, same for maplifiers.
Whenever anyone asks if a speaker will work with our amps I take a look at the impedance curve if one is available. But if the speaker is rated 8 ohms or more I pay attention, and if the speaker is rated higher, like 16 ohms, I’ve yet to run into one that didn’t work. I’ve seen some speakers, like B&Ws, that are rated ’nominally 8 ohms’ but feature dual woofers, which are wired in parallel, although the midrange and tweeter array is certainly what I would call ’8 ohms’. The woofer array, even though it may have peaks at 8 ohms or higher, is something I would regard as more of a 4 ohm load. So you do have to be careful about this issue; but in the case of higher impedances it usually no worried at all.


The Sound Lab is not a speaker rated at 16 ohms or 30 ohms despite both impedances being present at some frequency. While it is difficult for most solid state amps to make power on this speaker owing to the 30 ohm impedance in the bass (which is why a tube amp of 150 watts can easily keep up with a solid state amp of 600 watts on this speaker), all this means is that you might see about 1/4 the power the amp is rated for into 8 ohms. However, and this is important, as the frequency goes up above about 5-7KHz, the impedance is dropping, to a low of about 1.5-3 ohms (depending on the setting of the Brilliance control) at 20KHz. Like almost any full range ESL, the impedance varies by about 10 or 9:1 from the bass to the highs. The issue here is that a good quality solid state amp will double power as impedance is halved. With a box speaker, this is fine because a peak in the impedance curve usually represents a resonance so this property is welcomed. But this isn’t the case with the Sound Lab. It needs about the same power in the bass region as it does in the high treble region to make the same sound pressure at that frequency. This means that an amp that can double power (and the Sound Lab does not challenge most solid state amps in that regard) will be excessively bright due to this property.

To get around that issue, the Sound Lab is equipped with a number of settings to modify the speaker’s response. The Brilliance control is there to deal with excessive brightness, the bass settings allow you to boost or cut the bass, depending on if you have a solid state amp (boost) or tube amp (cut). IIRC there are midrange settings too.


One nice thing about this speaker if using solid state is that the bass impedance (where the power is) is high, resulting in low distortion for nearly any amplifier. Low distortion means less harmonics from the bass notes, so an amusical harmonic like the 7th, 9th, 11th or 13th to which the ear is keenly sensitive, will be greatly attenuated. IME this is beneficial to all amps.


The mod that @lewm did seems a wonderful upgrade for the speaker!
I’m gonna

1. remove the L pads
 
another advantage: the L pads in the back panel won’t be wired to the crossover/drivers inside, the back will come fully off.

2. annual tightness check (nothing ever loose, but, to sleep better ..)

a. confirm the drivers are tight to the front panel, and
b. the front panel tight to the case 
c. 15" Woofer off the front panel, I can check the paper cone’s condition, it’s been several years.
d. I might drill more mounting holes on the metal ring of the 15" woofer, 4 just doesn’t seem enough for that 37 lb monster (although it is never loose when I check)

3. make a new set of speaker cables using this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/75FT-CAT7-S-FTP-Network-Outdoor-High-Speed-10Gbps-Shielding-Ethernet-Cable-...

OFC, S/FTP, 24 awg solid strands (8 conductors equivalent to 14 awg)
(might be 26 awg, equivalent to 17 awg, waiting for seller's answer)
12 feet long each, (2+, 2- : 50 foot roll will just do it) 16 ohm nominal.
McIntosh chart says 18 awg, 16 ohms, max 60 feet long.

Unless someone talks me out of it!!!
If you want to add a single resistor to replace the L pad and adjust brilliance (like Lew suggested) Mills are great, those are the ones I use on my speaker and are very transparent, 12W BTW 28 ohms in my case.
Edit: in your case of course you might want to measure the lpad setting for resistance and replace with same value, my 28 ohms is very specific to my room and driver
@luisma31 : Mills are good not great, great are the Vishay ones nothing can beats it.

R.
So I heard Raul and I don't disagree. Practically for a speaker you will need quite a few Vishays per channel which will make it more expensive and more bulkier to install but yeah if you have the money Vishays are supposed to be great and Mills good (like you said)