TUBE BIAS, socket to me!


BIAS: (I'm starting from zero understanding) 

I have never measured/adjusted bias in the 3 tube amps, 3 tube receivers, and 2 tube preamps I have acquired over 47 years. I just switched my current Cayin from 6550's to KT88's. Adjust bias? Adjusters inside, scary electrocution warnings. I could pay someone else to do it, i.e. Steve at VAS 1 hr away in NJ, soooo, 

What really counts? (personally I don't care about either heat or life, but would like to understand)

Heat?
Life?
Output stays Matched when adjusted?
Acoustic Performance?
_________?

Over the years, fronts off, bottoms off, I hose em down with contact cleaner/lubricant, compressed air, all controls and switchers, any adjusters, swish full spin back and forth. Kill any spiders, look for, replace the rare burnt resistor. 
Then leave any adjusters (whatever they are) in the middle position, button it back up.

Two tube testers, my big hickock always agrees with small portable one, test strength, shorts, matched strength old and newly purchased. Large collection of NOS, used. Often used test essentially same strength as new ones.

When they go, it's usually a short.
elliottbnewcombjr
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Elliott, check the paperwork that came with your Cayin and see if it states that it has "automatic biasing" or something to that effect. If not, there should be a procedure on how to do it. Are there any test points on the top or back of the chassis?
If it must be adjusted and the measurements are internal flip the amp on it's back and use the spring loaded hook type test leads with the power off. Make sure there is a load (speakers) on the outputs unless stated otherwise. You want nothing connected on the inputs. They should have a setting (usually in millivolts) that you adjust a pot to. That will set the current flowing through the tube. Some amps have an individual pot for each tube and some share a pot between both tubes in a push pull type amp. If I recall, yours is a push pull design.
I suspect that it's auto biasing or more than likely you would have red plated a tube if your swapping tubes. Uneven current matching on the tubes can lead to a runaway current situation that results in red plating.
Don't rely on your tube tester to match tubes, they don't test the current at full operating voltages.
There is a Fisher forum on AK, lots of information over there on adjusting those amps.

BillWojo
Don’t rely on your tube tester to match tubes ..

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What would you test them with, or rely on?

A TUBE TESTER.... That’s right.. you have to maintain them too. LOL

I guess you need a tester for the tube tester?

Don’t rely on a "TUBE TESTER" to test tubes.. Just hit my funny bone..:-) One poster said.. "Monkey Bone"...

Oh and flip the switch back to normal position on your amp after the Bias check and set... New valves recheck a couple of times over the next couple weeks of playing... Keep an eye out for valve failure.. they do.. New more so..

Regards