Tweeters are silent on my Wilson audio Sofia 2

Simple way to test the tweeters removed both jumpers and run you amp to the top biding post red and black positive / negative and do the same LF red and black to test the woofers 

Thank you everybody for your assistance , I will go through all the testing that I can do and hopefully get to the bottom of it , if no resolution I'll contact the local WA dealer .
On another note : I was looking to upgrade the AMP , especially for the 2 Sofia's and would appreciate your input on the below amps i was looking at , keeping in mind that I want the Amp to have at least 300 watts / 8 ohms / 450-500 watts / 4 ohms :
Parasound Halo A 21+ ,  Mark Levinson 532H amplifier ($4250 used) , Sunfire TGA 7401 ($2200 new) , any recomedation on a certain  Krell (price range 3000 - 5000)

My teenage son had great parties, over the years he and his friends blew 4 pairs of tweeters on my JSE Infinite Slope Model II’s. They would have the wrong input, push the volume to max, then find the correct input, blam. Cost him $60. each party.

I was replacing the Dynaudios, finally used a Focal, sounded great and it’s ferro fluid could take a hit better than the Dynaudio.

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/speaker-drivers/?gclid=CjwKCAiA57D_BRAZEiwAZcfCxYIT_--EutU3614...


Because both are blown, I believe something like that blew your pair of tweeters (before you bought them perhaps).

You need to get to the back of your tweeters.

To prove internals are ok, there is a signal to the tweeter, is to buy a cheap tweeter, any driver, and touch it to the speaker’s tweeter’s wires.

Works, your tweeters are burnt.

No sound, other drivers work, something internal, part of the crossover? Unusual that crossover in both speakers would develop problems, unless the same weak point failed: one, then the other, finally noticeable.

To skip the crossover: disconnect the speaker wires. pull the tweeters, lower the volume to zero, touch the speaker wires to the tweeter, raise the volume a bit, just enough to see if the tweeter’s coil is good. If the tweeter moves, it’s something else, crossover or internal connection.

or test with a 1.5V battery (AA, D..)  and two leads ... much safer and easier :-)
Just touch wires to the terminals and listen for a click.
I'm baffled how this could have been overlooked, but hey.
If the tweeter are not functional you have:
1. miswired, or2. missing wires (2?  unlikely), or
3. destroyed from heat/power -- likely actually
remember that tweeters can take very little power/heat. if you play too loud too long, or worse, have extended clipping, they take the beating. And fail. Clipping = disproportional % of high frequency info.
Its why i have fuses. I kow many of you likely consider it abhorrent but i design and and have flaky stuff in my system all the time.
G

OP:
I gots to know:

Did you buy them new or used?
Did they always sound this way?
Does anyone else operate the system?

This sentence alone makes me think they are blown..

" amps i was looking at , keeping in mind that I want the Amp to have at least 300 watts / 8 ohms / 450-500 watts / 4 ohms"

Regards,
barts