Is this how a Subwoofer Crossover is supposed to work?

OP:

Nothing like measurements.  They are a type of fact, and a lot better than opinions and theory. :)

E

There is some great information here, but this thread REALLY has me wondering if I want to mess with subwoofers!

Cheeg,

To be fair,  it isn't the sub, it's the lowest octaves.  There be dragons there.  Sometimes you are lucky and they don't notice you, but if you are going to take them on, a sub is the best way to go.

Having said that, for the single and dual sub use case I've stopped trying to advise anyone to integrate their subs, but rely on built in systems like JL Audio or automatic room correction.

And like Duke, I think the depths are worth having.

Erik and I may disagree on some of the finer points of subwoofers, but we both think they can be well worth messing with.

The disagreements are not on finer points. They are on the basic facts. 

It's no secret that Duke is a proponent of the so called DBA bass technology. Erik however is an opponent of this. Here is what Erik has to say about it:

I am no longer a fan of this idea due to the fan boys and how cultish they have become.

Please read details directly from the vendor as I am not a fan and therefore won't do it justice.

In this thread, here is what Duke had to say about the measurements OP posted up:

Your measurements look to me like they are in the ballpark for a variable-frequency second-order lowpass filter. 

Here is what Erik said

No, the measurements do not look like very good representations of crossover behavior when changing the crossover point. However, since there are two subs involved, I can’t tell what is going on.

In conclusion these are diametrically opposed views. They are the worst of enemies and any suggestion otherwise is disingenuous.

Don’t get buyers remorse.. GET EVEN. Make it work.. K quit stirring the pot.... You make me sad... Were gonna have a big break up if you keep it up... :-)

I think the issue is NOT a problem.

I say if the bass boxes, WERE treated like SUBS you would be just fine.

200 hz Man oh Man.. Nothing to do with SUBs ok.

50hz at a 6 db roll off would put the SUBS still making bass way over 100 hz..... Does that make better sense OP... It’s a LONG sloppy slope to BASS BOOM HEAVEN (this case hell)... You’d fit right in with some of the kids around here (BIG SMILE)

At 12db, @ 90 hz or so, 18db @ 80, 24db @ 70-75. Do you see the correlation.

Here is a real nugget.. Break in the subs FIRST... They usually are pretty tights for 100 hour or so.. IBs take longer to break in... Give stuff a chance ONE sub at a time....

Turn the knobs CCW, like I said, and make sure the XLR, RCA issue is fixed FIRST... There is a HUGE difference between XLR input and RCA... READ... This cost NOTHING.. Measure AFTER it sounds BETTER, not worse.. man oh man... You’re way ahead of yourself..

1. let the things break in a bit, cables settle, and use XLRs or RCAs not both (FOR NOW). Split with simple Ys. Mains and subs...
2. turn the XO, GAIN and PHASE, CCW
3. get one right first (including break in)

Read my second post for tuning... I use a simple SPL, with tone burst where I know they have problems, 50 80 and around 1-130. Its a ceiling height thing... Folks forgot the basics.. An SPL Meter.. REW. I have all that stuff.. LOL. BIGGER LOL So you know REW, always will tell you to TURN IT DOWN....HUGE LOL.... Learn your room...

Break in your new gear.. be patient...

Enjoy.. OP... Oh and happy bumpin New Year, Steam plunk, caplunk...

Hat on the floor...... Olay.... Tap Tap, Cha Cha Cha....

Regards

Those plots of FR dont look right at all. 

Those 12" drivers should produce good output to at least 500 Hz.

Looks there is a hardwired inductor blocking output at 50 Hz. Is there?

You should see good output up to the chosen cutoff frequency. Yes, dips and peaks, but should be good output, even with room effects.

Something is definitely WRONG here.