Is this how a Subwoofer Crossover is supposed to work?


I bought two Starke SW12 subwoofers that I installed.  So far I'm not particularly happy with them.  They are way too loud even with the volume set almost to off.  More importantly, I'm having trouble integrating them into my system and I'm wondering if that is because their crossover setting is really functioning as I understand a crossover should. Attached please find measurements from Room Equalization Wizard with SPL graphs of the two subs (no speakers) taken at my listening position with the crossover set at 50 Hz, 90 Hz, and 130 Hz. Ignore the peaks and dips which I assume are due to room nodes.  All of those settings appear to actually have the same crossover point of 50 Hz. All that changes is the slope of the rolloff in sound levels. This isn't how I thought a properly designed crossover was supposed to work.  I thought the frequency the levels would start to roll off would change, i.e. flat to 50 hz then a sharp drop, flat to 90 hz then a sharp drop, etc. etc..  But Starke says this is how a subwoofer crossover is supposed to work.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8x4cr32pagwg48i/Two%20Subs%20Different%20Crossover%20Points%20No%20Speaker...
Any experts on here with an opinion about this?  Is it possible to buy an inexpensive active crossover that I could use in place of what is built into these subs?
pinwa
Don’t get buyers remorse.. GET EVEN. Make it work.. K quit stirring the pot.... You make me sad... Were gonna have a big break up if you keep it up... :-)

I think the issue is NOT a problem.

I say if the bass boxes, WERE treated like SUBS you would be just fine.

200 hz Man oh Man.. Nothing to do with SUBs ok.

50hz at a 6 db roll off would put the SUBS still making bass way over 100 hz..... Does that make better sense OP... It’s a LONG sloppy slope to BASS BOOM HEAVEN (this case hell)... You’d fit right in with some of the kids around here (BIG SMILE)

At 12db, @ 90 hz or so, 18db @ 80, 24db @ 70-75. Do you see the correlation.

Here is a real nugget.. Break in the subs FIRST... They usually are pretty tights for 100 hour or so.. IBs take longer to break in... Give stuff a chance ONE sub at a time....

Turn the knobs CCW, like I said, and make sure the XLR, RCA issue is fixed FIRST... There is a HUGE difference between XLR input and RCA... READ... This cost NOTHING.. Measure AFTER it sounds BETTER, not worse.. man oh man... You’re way ahead of yourself..

1. let the things break in a bit, cables settle, and use XLRs or RCAs not both (FOR NOW). Split with simple Ys. Mains and subs...
2. turn the XO, GAIN and PHASE, CCW
3. get one right first (including break in)

Read my second post for tuning... I use a simple SPL, with tone burst where I know they have problems, 50 80 and around 1-130. Its a ceiling height thing... Folks forgot the basics.. An SPL Meter.. REW. I have all that stuff.. LOL. BIGGER LOL So you know REW, always will tell you to TURN IT DOWN....HUGE LOL.... Learn your room...

Break in your new gear.. be patient...

Enjoy.. OP... Oh and happy bumpin New Year, Steam plunk, caplunk...

Hat on the floor...... Olay.... Tap Tap, Cha Cha Cha....

Regards
Those plots of FR dont look right at all. 

Those 12" drivers should produce good output to at least 500 Hz.

Looks there is a hardwired inductor blocking output at 50 Hz. Is there?

You should see good output up to the chosen cutoff frequency. Yes, dips and peaks, but should be good output, even with room effects.

Something is definitely WRONG here.
@kenjit wrote:

"They [Erik and Duke] are the worst of enemies and any suggestion otherwise is disingenuous."

This is a lie.

Stop stalking us both.

Duke
Wolfie62 wrote: "Looks there is a hardwired inductor blocking output at 50 Hz. Is there?"

I speculate that the inductor is the woofer’s voice coil. In general the longer the voice coil (the more turns of wire in it), the higher the inductance. There are construction techniques which minimize voice coil inductance, but they are expensive, and may not be practical at some price points.

Duke
Seeing as how the Willsenton R8 has no pre-amp output and the Starke SW12 has no speaker level input you are going straight from your dac to the subs, correct? Are you controlling the volume level with the dac and just using the R8 as an amp only? What you describe sounds an awful lot like you are using a fixed volume output from your dac. "They are way too loud even with the volume set almost to off". I am willing to bet you are sending a full power signal to the subs and over driving their amps. This will cause all of the problems you are having.