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Schiit "Gumby" owner considering Ayre Codex -- advice?

I have an Audio Research system driving Vandersteen Treos, and listen mostly to classical music.  My DAC is a Schiit "Gumby" (Gungnir Multibit).  My listening tends toward solo piano, small brass ensemble, but also big symphonies (Mahler, Bruckner).  I look for a relaxed sense of detail and openness and texture.

Yesterday, I was given a very strong recommendation for the Ayre Codex.  So now I'm wondering what sort of differences that might reveal in my system.  I've seen raves for the Codex, including comments from Gumby owners who switched.  But I've also seen at least one comment from someone who preferred the Gumby.

What sort of people / systems / listening do you think favor one over the other?

Given my system and listening, should I look for the opportunity to sell the Gumby and get a used Codex?

Thanks in advance!

rach_fan
rego
378 posts
 
Aim higher ... Amber / Orchid ... for moderate range-maybe more in line for ARC (refined) theme ...
213runnin
914 posts
 
So the Ayre Codex is about $1800?  It's a dac, pre and a headphone amp?

So that means the budget to build it is divided among the 3 functions while the Gungnir just has the one function.  Comparisons like this tend to come down to personal preference, and most responses will just be of that nature.

If the OP can demo the unit along side the Gungnir, that would be the best.
rach_fan OP
25 posts
 
Lots of helpful info!  Thanks.  Especially, thanks gdnrbob and rvpiano.  I bought a used Codex, and it's on its way.  Unfortunately, my power amp died a week or so ago, so I'll have to make comparisons with my D-130. I don't know if it's the recordings I'm playing, but the system just doesn't sound as great with the D-130 in place of the SD135.  I will muddle on... :-)
gdnrbob
4,444 posts
 
@rach_fan ,
Congrats on the Codex.
Are the amps you are referring to AR?
Checked fuses? Looked inside for a blown Cap?
B
rach_fan OP
25 posts
 
Yes, both AR amps.  The SD135 is the one that failed, and the symptoms are exactly the same as before, when the ThermalTrak transistors were the issue.  My other thread has more detail.  I haven't unscrewed the 18 screws to remove the top, but I did peer inside through the grill, using a flashlight.  The big caps look okay.  Obviously something is wrong, but I would have to know where to look, and even then might not see anything.  Last time, I did remove the top, but I never had a visual indication of anything wrong.
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